GLACIERS AND GRIZZLIES IN KLUANE NATIONAL PARK
Discover `a place untouched by time' on journey to vast Yukon icefield
Looking at the small Cessna 206 float plane parked along the shore of Kluane Lake, I suddenly feel nervous about flying into one of the most extreme environments on the planet.
“How long have you been flying?” I ask the pilot, John Ostashea of Rocking Star Adventures.
“It's my first day,” he jokes, as he climbs into the plane and starts the engine.
My hands tremble as I fasten my seatbelt. I have a fear of flying. But that fear transforms into excitement when we reach 8,000 feet, soaring above the colourful mountains of the Kluane Range that hide the giants buried deep within the icy heart of Kluane National Park and Reserve — the St. Elias Mountains.
Located in the southwest corner of the Yukon, Kluane National Park has more than 2,000 sprawling glaciers that are part of the largest icefield in the world outside of Antarctica and Greenland. It's also home to 17 of Canada's 20 highest peaks — including the highest, Mount Logan at 19,551 feet. The only way to experience this mysterious land frozen in time is by hiking for several days or hopping on a small plane.
Soon we're flying over the Kaskawulsh Glacier, which looks like a 10-lane freeway wrapping around the mountains. It's a staggering 70 kilometres long and five kilometres wide. Other enormous glaciers merge onto the Kaskawulsh, taking command of this hostile landscape that looks like another planet.
Shrouded by thick glaciers and ice, the mountains start to look small even though they're getting bigger the further we fly into the park. Suddenly I see the icefield looming in the distance. It's an intimidating sight. I feel like I'm in a
place I shouldn't be, which is what makes Kluane so alluring.
“I always see something different whenever I fly into the park,” said Ostashea, who's been flying for more than 30 years. “Kluane and the icefields within it are a
place untouched by time, an opportunity to go back in time to see a glimpse of what the whole continent may have looked like at one time — untouched and unspoiled.”
Now in his ninth season of sightseeing flights, Ostashea has seen
some of the glaciers change over time. During the last 60 years, Kluane has lost about 20 per cent of its glacial coverage. The Kaskawulsh Glacier has retreated so far that in 2016 its meltwater abruptly changed direction to another river, cutting off water to the Slims River that drains into Kluane Lake — the largest lake in the Yukon. According to Parks Canada, water levels have dropped significantly, affecting access to and use of the lake. The event was dubbed “river piracy” and has not been seen in the modern era.
But the glaciers aren't the only stars of Kluane. The park is also known for its dense population of grizzly bears. Hikers are encouraged to carry bear spray and make lots of noise to avoid surprise encounters.
I opt for a guide to show me one of Kluane's most popular trails — the 10-km Sheep Creek Trail, which climbs up the side of Sheep Mountain, offering views of the Slims River Valley.
“The bears don't want to have anything to do with people,” says Derek Moroy with Yukon Guided Adventures, as we hike up the trail lined with a dazzling display of red and golden leaves. Dall sheep dot one section of the mountain like white cotton balls.
Moroy shares a few stories about his encounters with grizzlies and I'm relieved to hear they all have peaceful endings. The only wildlife we encounter on the trail are a few grouse and squirrels that quickly scamper away.
Kluane is a place to escape the crowds and experience an environment that boggles the mind.