THE ULTIMATE CROSS-COUNTRY GETAWAY
Combine splendid scenery with the cosy comforts of a lodge stay as you take to the trails
Fifteen minutes into our glide around the Bow River Loop in Lake Louise, we came to a small hill. More like a bump, I’d say. Could have been made by ants, actually. At any rate, for a newbie Nordic skier, like me, it looked mean; a vicious three per cent grade, a mandatory hard-right turn at the bottom, an overhanging branch that arced menacingly over the trail halfway down.
“Decapitation seems likely here, dear,” I said, trembling. “I’d prefer to avoid the carnage. Perhaps we should turn around.” She didn’t say anything and propelled herself forward, with much gusto, into the looming cool-blue abyss.
As it turns out, cross-country skiing is a bit of a workout. Weird and virtually unknown muscle groups get punished and put to semi-good use. The skis and poles can, with no warning whatsoever, suddenly go off in different directions and at exactly the same time. High-speed “yardsales” are totally possible. That’s the bad news.
The good news is this: it’s an awesome way to recreate in winter. Especially in Lake Louise.
“True, this year we haven’t had the amount of snow we typically receive,” says Bill Keeling, manager at Wilson Mountain Sports in Lake Louise. (Wilson Sports is the go-to spot for sports gear, including cross-country ski rentals, in Lake Louise.) “However, late February and early March have been fantastic. And up here at Lake Louise, there are some key benefits. Due to our higher elevation, it’s colder and the snow is drier. Our season lasts longer. Our trails are groomed regularly and we have some of the most scenic Nordic skiing in the Canadian Rockies. Just like alpine skiing, people come from all over the world to go cross-country skiing at Lake Louise.”
While my wife, Dawn, and I were not quite ready to tackle, say, the tricky Pipestone Loop (Keeling considers this blue trail one of the premier cross-country ski loops in the region), we definitely took on an appropriate beginner-friendly challenge with the Bow River Loop, almost right in town. This green seven-kilometre trail features some lovely sections along the river, a couple of river crossings, and peaceful track-set skiing through the pines. Also, this trail is basically flat — save for a few terrifying ant-authored hills along the way — and is a really great starting point for new skiers. Other fun green trails in the area include the Moraine Lake Road, the Old 1A (or Great Divide), Lower Telemark and Lake Louise Tramline. In the popular Pipestone area, the easier options are Hector, Merlin, and Drummond. (Parks Canada has some valuable online information on cross-country skiing in the Lake Louise area.)
Beginner and intermediate skiers will also enjoy the phenomenal trails up at the lake itself. And, in winter, due to significantly less traffic than in summer, it’s possible to self-drive to the parking lots near the Chateau Lake Louise.
For beginners, the 4.1-kilometre Lake Louise Loop is a great choice and features a beautiful glide across the frozen lake.
“The Fairview trail, which starts near the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, is one of the most beautiful cross-country trails in Canada,” says Keeling. “It’s a classic intermediate trail with stunning mountain views, some challenging sections, but less than 100 metres of elevation change. You can do it as an out-and-back or combine it with the Moraine Lake Road and Tramline to make an awesome six-kilometre loop.”
Considering our Bow River Loop-di-do took place over Valentine’s Day, my wife and I iced the adventure with a memorable stay at the historic Post Hotel & Spa. (And, yes, I did need some ice after skiing.) This famous outpost is perfectly positioned just steps from Wilson Sports and a branch of the Bow River Loop trail shoots right in front of the hotel. In my opinion, if you’re a beginner and you’re looking for the ultimate cross-country getaway, consider it found. The sheer convenience, the rustic charms (the lodge was built in 1942), the exquisite dining room, and the hot tub (mandatory after skiing) make the Post tough to top.
Are there other great getaways for cross-country skiers? Absolutely! The cross-country skiing at Emerald Lake Lodge in Yoho National Park is magical. One of the many highlights at this lovely lakeside lodge, in my opinion, is capping your adventure with wine and charcuterie around the crackling fire in one of the best lobby bars in the Rockies.
Another great option is Mount Engadine Lodge, located along Spray Lakes Road or Highway 742, approximately half an hour south of Canmore. This year, this cosy K-country retreat launched a cross-country ski rental program ($30 per day for a full package) and has also invested considerably into refurbishing and maintaining 12 kilometres of ski trails in the meadows and forests outside the lodge.
Is it always necessary to splurge and stay at a luxurious mountain lodge after a day of cross-country skiing? Well, no, of course not. But it’s awfully nice. And, when you ski like I do, the closer you are to things like ice packs, massage therapists, hot tubs, hot-rum toddies, and the like, the better.