A TRANQUIL TROPICAL PARADISE
Anguilla's off-the-beaten-path charm will win you over in a heartbeat
Admiration for Anguilla's goats is top of mind when I spot their scat while navigating the Caribbean island's jagged limestone shoreline. It's an adventurous climb along the aptly named Goat Cave Hike.
Our goal is to reach the jumping off point into the cave's alluring plunge pool. Guide Jahdo of AXA Life Hike via Quest Experiences advises us to jump in with our shoes on for a safer climb out. The decision to swim fully clothed is made by the sea, drenching me with a huge wave just before I could change.
All good, though. My dry swim suit is suitable attire for a delicious patio lunch of coconut shrimp with mango chutney at Sunset Tropical restaurant, located in beautiful Shoal Bay.
Here, my attention turns to members of Anguilla's Women's National Football team working out in the waves ahead of a match against Curaçao.
We're midway through a fourday visit to the eastern Caribbean island at the invitation of the Anguilla Tourist Board, and it's crystal clear, the British Overseas Territory exceeds expectations.
Not only is it a tranquil tropical paradise but its off-the-beatenpath charm resounds through authentic encounters, all service with a smile, friendly exchanges with locals and kindred-spirit visitors as we explore the slender 91-square kilometre island, home to 33 powder-white beaches. Not surprising Anguilla's upmarket but laid-back ambience has enticed celebrities such as Justin Bieber and Denzel Washington.
The five-star Malliouhana Resort, perched on a bluff above Mead's Bay and Turtle Cove serves as a lavish home base for our stay in late November.
Guests of the 25-acre estate enjoy three pristine sandy beaches and two freshwater infinity pools amid lush tropical greenery. A luxury spa and fitness centre beckon, as well as sports courts and a shipshaped play structure for kids.
Malliouhana, meaning arrow-headed sea serpent in the Arawak language, was once the name of the island. The iconic resort, celebrating its 40th year, has been renovated twice, retaining its charm while cleverly integrating modern amenities such as camouflaging a television in a mirror. My spacious, art deco oceanview room, one of 63 rooms and suites, includes a large private terrace with spectacular views of lingering sunsets.
The sweet spot for me is wandering the pristine estate during the late-afternoon golden hour. Glistening waves lure me into the sea, and birds, including Zenaida doves, tanagers and a great white heron are delightful companions. I also spy several lizards but one in particular makes my day, popping up to strike several poses on a luminous aloe vera flower.
Light, though at night, plays another memorable role in a magical kayaking excursion in Crocus Bay led by Liquid Glow. Paddling the dark sea with a phosphorescent glow illuminates the water to expose sea turtles gliding beneath our feet.
More glow is in tow for us but while comfortably seated at the Malliouhana. Glo's Flavoured Rums, made in Anguilla and created by former bartender/manager Gloria Leveret are ready for tasting with Gloria and daughter Julia sharing insights into more than a dozen flavours including lime, mango, vanilla, plum and my favourite, banana.
Our tastebuds tingle again devouring lobster, crayfish, shrimp and mahi mahi for lunch on Sandy Island, a stop on our stellar fourand-a-half-hour sea excursion aboard Legacy Charters.
Snorkelling from the boat, greeting spear-fishers and spotting an adorable brown booby among a bevy of Turk's cap cacti on the massive limestone cliffs is delightful. So too, the spectacular views of the island.
Our land tour of Anguilla aboard Premier Taxi & Tours also presents panoramic views and interesting cultural sites. All is calm navigating the island with just six traffic lights and a speed limit of 50 km/h. Car rentals are also available.
Anguilla Sands & Salts offers an authentic taste of Anguilla you'll want to bring home. Owner Josveek Huligar, passionate about Anguillan authenticity, shares tiny crystals of tantalizing salts including curry-infused, red pepper-infused, espresso-infused and garlic-infused. The boutique also showcases handcrafted jewelry using sand from specific Anguilla beaches.
Browsing the gallery of Cheddie's Carving Studio is fascinating. Art sculpted from driftwood, as well as mahogany, stone and coral, ranges from fish to birds to animals and beyond. Imagine a mermaid whose long hair morphs into a bird. His “take-your-time” creative ethos is clear when we meet Anguillan artist Cheddie Richardson in his workshop. Not surprising, Cheddie's wood and stone carving of a dolphin, given to Queen Elizabeth II, is in Britain's Royal Collection.
The Wallblake House on the Anguilla Heritage Trail was built in 1787, with slave labour. The former sugar and cotton plantation now serves as a cultural centre. Also in Anguilla's capital, The Valley, the facades of both the older and new St. Gerard's churches command attention resembling three ships pressed together as a tribute to Anguilla's seafaring history.
Dining “out” is a pleasant constant in Anguilla from beach patios to more formal eateries where gentle sea breezes set the tone. Malliouhana's seaside Celeste earns high praise from diners enjoying roasted beetroot salad to grilled Anguillian lobster to pan-seared snapper filet.
The luncheon menu of local cuisine at E's Oven Restaurant & Bar, includes a shrimp, feta and watermelon salad for me plus thumbs up from locals on-site collecting favourite takeout orders.
D Richards Steakhouse at the posh Aurora Anguilla Resort, home to the island's only golf course, tempts me to imbibe a Hole in One Mule featuring rum, chili spice, lime and ginger beer. Char-grilled lobster, red snapper and smoked eggplant are chef selections, as well as the main attractions of chargrilled filet mignon and New York strip steak. The hot ticket however, is the Volcano Fireball molten chocolate cake, literally on fire.
Dining at the Hibernia Restaurant and Art Gallery at Island Harbour is invigorating. French chef Raoul Rodriguez offers a widely acclaimed menu of French, Asian and Caribbean cuisine in partnership with wife, Mary Pat O'hanlon, the host and co-owner.
Culinary inspiration from the couple's annual travels to Asia for decades is reflected in the evolving menu, as well as in the intriguing art gallery attached to the five-star eatery.