Rioja's wines offer depth, power and value
Rioja might not have the status of Bordeaux, the shine of Champagne or the prestige of Burgundy, but Spain's most famous wine region reliably produces terrific wines at great value.
Running along the Ebro River and its tributaries in northern Spain, the region produces reds, whites, rosés and sparkling wines. But it's the reds, built predominantly on Tempranillo, that garner the most attention.
Age and oak play an important role in Rioja. While recent rule changes shine a light on specific zones, communities and single vineyards, most of the wines we see fall into the four traditional categories of generic, Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva.
All but the generic and sparkling wines must spend a minimum time in oak barrels, with Gran Reservas seeing the most time in wood. Extended aging, both in oak and afterward in bottle, means that the wines are generally ready to drink when released — though many can age for much longer.
Rioja's winemakers use more oak barrels than any region in the world, according to the Consejo Regulador de la Denomiación de Origen Calificada Rioja, the body that oversees the region. The cellars are loaded with wines waiting for their time.
Here are some great examples of Rioja reds that I tasted during Calgary's Winefest last month.
HACIENDA LOPEZ DE HARO 2020 Crianza
Rioja, Spain
This juicy and bright Rioja comes from San Vicente de la Sonsierra in the cooler, higher elevation western sub-region of Rioja Alta, near the community of Haro. The vineyards are nestled north of the Ebro River and south of the Sierra de Cantabria mountains.
Cherry flavours predominate in this blend of Tempranillo, garnacha (Grenache) and graciano, with complementary notes of raspberry, leather, vanilla and strawberry. Aged for 14 months in new and second-use French and American oak barrels, the wine is medium-bodied, with bright acid.
Price: About $20. Check for it B.K. Liquor Store, select Co-op Wines Spirits Beer locations, Safeway/sobeys Liquor, Vine Arts Wine and Spirits and Willow Park Wines & Spirits.
Drink: Now. Enjoy it with hamburgers, beef stew or duck. Cork; 13.5 per cent alc./vol.
CONDE VALDEMAR 2016 Crianza
Rioja, Spain
Siblings Ana and Jesús Martínez Bujanda manage this family winery, which was launched more than 130 years ago.
The family produces wines from more than 300 hectares of vineyards spread through Rioja's three subzones. They also operate a winery in Washington State — Valdemar Estates.
Almost eight years old, this Crianza is in a beautiful place right now. The bold fruit flavours of baked plum, black cherry and strawberry are joined by secondary notes of leather, spice, mushroom, graphite, blackberry and cassis. Made primarily with Tempranillo, it is ripe and juicy, with plush tannins and a fresh finish.
Price: Around $24. It has been sold at Cork Fine Wine, Liquor and Ale, Cost Low Liquor, Craft Cellars, Crescent Liquor, Hotshot Liquor, Silver Spring Liquor Store, Sobeys Liquor (Cranston), Sundance Wine Market and Vine Arts Wine and Spirits.
Drink: In the next couple of years. Try it with lamb chops, roast beef or baked ham. Screw cap; 14 per cent alc./vol.
BODEGAS MUGA 2019 Reserva
Rioja, Spain
Bodegas Muga is an award-winning winery based in Haro that manages 420 hectares of vineyards throughout Rioja. The winery was started in 1932 by Isaac Muga and Aurora Caño and the Muga family still controls it today.
Muga believes oak is so important that it employs a master cooper and three barrel makers, a rarity in Spain. All the wines spend time in oak, even the sparkling wines. But the wood doesn't overpower things.
This Reserva is a great example. It is dense and rich, but the core of fruit is perfectly balanced by the oak, ripe tannins and acidity. Still very tight, decanting the wine for an hour unlocks flavours of black cherry, blueberry, blackcurrant, strawberry, leather, spice and black licorice.
The blend of Tempranillo, garnacha, mazuelo (carignan) and graciano was fermented in oak before aging in barrels for two years and then aged in bottle for another year.
Price: About $30. Look for it at Altadore Wine and Spirits, Aspen Wine and Spirits, Bin 905, BSW Liquor, Cap Liquor, Crowfoot Wine and Spirits, Highlander Wine and Spirits and Wine and Beyond.
Drink: This would be in a great place in five years, if you can wait. Pair it with beef tenderloin, rabo de toro (oxtail stew) or aged manchego cheese. Cork; 14.5 per cent alc./vol.
MANZANOS 2018 Reserva Rioja, Spain
Since 1890, five generations of the Fernández de Manzanos family have produced wines in Rioja.
Brothers Víctor and David Fernández de Manzanos and Victor's wife, Laura Mateo Cuadrado, now manage the business. They operate two wineries in Rioja, one in Haro and the other in Azagra at the eastern end of the region, in the warmer Rioja Oriental sub-region. They also own a winery outside of Rioja in Navarra that focuses on rosé.
This is a beefy red with plum, black cherry, vanilla, tobacco, leather and earthy flavours. It's a rich, juicy and dry blend of three grapes — Tempranillo (50 per cent), graciano (30 per cent) and garnacha (20 per cent) — from four different vineyards. The wine spent 24 months in new and second-use French and American oak, followed by at least a year of aging in the bottle.
Price: About $40. Look for it at Aspen Wine and Spirits and Sobeys Liquor (Cranston).
Drink: In the next five to 10 years. Good food matches include lamb shanks, New York strip steak or Spanish white bean stew with chorizo and blood sausage. Cork; 13.5 per cent alc./vol.
CALGARY WINE STORES REOPEN
In February, I wrote about the closure of Calgary's two J. Webb Wine Merchant locations. Well, they have been reopened by two former employers — Rob Smith and Jarret Hannah. The Glenmore Landing location is now known as The Wine Shop while the West Springs spot retains the J. Webb name.
Contact Darren Oleksyn at dm.oleksyn@gmail.com or follow him on Instagram or X. Looking for a specific wine? Because wine inventories are always in flux, it's a good idea to call a store to confirm they have it or search on Liquorconnect.com.