Calgary Herald

THE LAKE HOUSE CELEBRATES A DELICIOUS DECADE

- ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH Elizabeth Chorney-booth can be reached at elizabooth@gmail.com. Follow her on Instagram at @elizabooth or sign up for her newsletter at hungrycalg­ary.substack.com.

The Lake House, Canadian

Rocky Mountain Resorts' beautiful restaurant at the edge of Lake Bonavista, has been the site of many anniversar­y celebratio­ns, but now it's time for the restaurant to mark an anniversar­y of its own. A decade of service is a feat in the restaurant world and The Lake House is celebratin­g its double-digit birthday with a special menu reliving some of its greatest culinary hits.

The Lake House results from the confluence of two local legacies — the lakeside building that housed the long-standing and much-beloved Inn on the Lake restaurant and CRMR, the institutio­n behind equally cherished restaurant­s like the dearly departed Divino and Cilantro, as well as still-thriving mountain properties including Emerald Lake Lodge, Buffalo Mountain Lodge and the Post Hotel and Spa. The Lake House, born after CRMR moved its Ranche restaurant out of Fish Creek Park, opened its doors on Valentine's Day 2014, a suitable date given its ultraroman­tic locale. It is CRMR'S only full-service restaurant within the city after decades of the company's role in establishi­ng the concept of locally sourced taste-of-place western Canadian cuisine.

While a decade isn't that long in the grand scheme of the

CRMR story (the company dates to founders Pat and Connie O'connor's purchase of Emerald Lake Lodge in 1979), The Lake House has plenty of reason to fete itself. Longevity is a tricky business for restaurant­s, but general manager Kevin Sky says the restaurant's enduring success has come from the combinatio­n of the spectacula­r view from the restaurant's expansive lake-facing windows, local regulars thrilled to have an upscale dining option in their neighbourh­ood, and dedicated staff committed to upholding to the standards that have long guided CRMR.

“Not a lot has changed since we've opened and that's been responsibl­e for some of our success,” Sky says. “Our executive chef Thomas Neukom has been here since before the restaurant opened here. Gareth Colville, our chef de cuisine, has been here the entire time. I've been here almost the entire time. The

consistenc­y of the people here has been a huge factor.”

Having that consistenc­y of chefs means it was easy for the kitchen team to put together a menu of classics. While there are some constants on the Lake House menu (you will always find a bison burger, for example), Colville typically likes to switch things up seasonally, meaning there were many past favourites to draw from. The magic of The Lake House's menu has always been about using high quality ingredient­s that represent CRMR'S mountain roots (including meat sourced from the company's ranch) to make food that is comforting and creative. It's a rare thing to find in a suburban setting and the unique nature of the dishes has resulted in some clear fan favourites over the years.

Resurrecte­d dishes include lunchtime miso-glazed red spring salmon ($28) and chicken schnitzel over spinach fettuccine with mushroom cream ($28), both from 2018. Guests can also expect dinner selections like the 2014 Lake House fish plank selection of cured and smoked seafood and fish ($26/$36), panseared scallops with herb risotto and tempura scampi from 2016 ($46) and a luxurious Parmesan-crusted lamb rack from 2016 with lamb shoulder moussaka ($52). Since this is a seasonal affair, these selections will be available until early summer when Colville anticipate­s he will bring back some warm-weather-specific dishes.

The Lake House is at 747 Lake Bonavista Dr. S.E. and can be reached at 403-225-3939 or through lakehousec­algary.com.

The restaurant is open Tuesday through Friday for lunch and Tuesday through Sunday for dinner.

In other restaurant news, the team at D.O.P. has been hinting for some time that the quirky building the restaurant lives in is slated for demolition. An announceme­nt was made on Instagram last week that D.O.P. will be moving out of its Victoria Park space in September.

The restaurant recently appointed a new chef, Cody Fummerton, taking over after the departure of Alessandro Chinea, who is opening a new restaurant of his own.

Don't fear, management is in the process of finding a new space, so D.O.P. should ride on in one form or another. Stay tuned!

Finally, the minds at Modern Steak seem to be consistent­ly coming up with new ideas to get people out to eat steaks and the latest is a series of dinners that will pair food with music. The first will take place April 20 at the Stephen Avenue location in celebratio­n of the release of Taylor Swift's new album The Tortured Poet's Department. Bruschetta and Blank Space? A Love Story filet mignon? Why not?

Future dinners will include a Drake Châteauneu­f-du-pape wine dinner May 25 and a Wagyu and Wutang dinner June 15. For reservatio­ns or more informatio­n, visit modernstea­k.ca.

 ?? BRENT CALVER ?? General manager Kevin Sky and events manager Kirsten Davies at The Lake House, which is celebratin­g its 10th anniversar­y with a special menu of classics.
BRENT CALVER General manager Kevin Sky and events manager Kirsten Davies at The Lake House, which is celebratin­g its 10th anniversar­y with a special menu of classics.
 ?? BRENT CALVER ?? Pan seared scallops with herb risotto and tempura scampi is brought back from the 2016 menu for The Lake House anniversar­y.
BRENT CALVER Pan seared scallops with herb risotto and tempura scampi is brought back from the 2016 menu for The Lake House anniversar­y.
 ?? CANADIAN ROCKY MOUNTAIN RESORTS ?? The Lake House opened its doors on Valentine's Day 2014, a suitable date given its romantic location.
CANADIAN ROCKY MOUNTAIN RESORTS The Lake House opened its doors on Valentine's Day 2014, a suitable date given its romantic location.
 ?? BRENT CALVER ?? The Lake House has always been about using high quality ingredient­s, including meat sourced from CRMR'S ranch.
BRENT CALVER The Lake House has always been about using high quality ingredient­s, including meat sourced from CRMR'S ranch.
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