Calgary Herald

SPLURGE VERSUS STEAL

Experience Singapore on a budget and beyond

- JODY ROBBINS

With its blend of glitz, glamour and greenery, Singapore welcomes travellers of all budgets and preference­s. From iconic landmarks to verdant parks, it offers irresistib­le charm rooted in a rich melting pot of cultures. Here are a few different ways to explore the welcoming energy of this pulsating city-state, now serviced by direct flights from Vancouver on Air Canada.

GET A HISTORICAL PERSPECTIV­E

Singapore best showcases its authentic allure through its neighbourh­oods. Kampong Glam’s historic charm remains intact, with the preservati­on of its traditiona­l shophouses and the golden dome of the Sultan Mosque. Murals, boutiques and artisans honing traditiona­l crafts fill the tightly packed pedestrian alleyways.

Ice cream-coloured traditiona­l Peranakan homes can be found in the Katong-joo Chiat neighbourh­ood along Koon Seng Street. Beautifull­y restored and adorned with intricate details, they’re infinitely Instagramm­able. The enclave is a melting pot of historic architectu­ral gems sandwiched between specialty shops and cafés. Cat Socrates is tops for souvenirs and home decor items designed by Singapore artists. Peckish? Kim Choo Kueh Chang serves freshly made rice dumplings, a staple dish in Peranakan culture.

A worthy splurge, especially if it’s humid, is getting your bearings with Singapore Sidecars. Sitting in the sidecar of a vintage Vespa, you’ll relish the breeze as you whiz past iconic sites such as the durian-looking Esplanade theatre, Marina Bay Sands and historic neighbourh­oods. Anyone with mobility or size concerns can take the same tour in a VW Beetle.

GREEN INITIATIVE­S

One of the world’s greenest cities, Singapore is a botanical gem blooming with rooftop gardens and plenty of public green space. There’s no charge to refresh your senses at Singapore Botanic Gardens, which hosts free weekend concerts and festivals. Level up your visit by paying to access the National Orchid Garden to view one of the world’s largest orchid collection­s.

Gardens by the Bay is another must-visit oasis. Access to the children’s garden and outdoor gardens, dotted with towering vertical gardens that create a futuristic and surreal landscape, is free. The nightly light show, Garden Rhapsody, is also free — you just have to look up.

It’s worth the fee to walk amid the vertical gardens along the OCBC Skyway, a suspended aerial walkway. There’s also a separate charge to access the Flower Dome and Cloud Forest, which fans of fantastica­l floral displays won’t want to miss.

DINING AND IMBIBING

What separates Singapore from the other great culinary capitals of the world? There are over 100 hawker centres — food courts with hundreds of stalls — that locals are as proud of as the 55 Michelin-starred restaurant­s.

There’s no need to be squeamish when eating at a food stall but look for the green alphabetiz­ed hygiene rating scorecard if you are. “A” denotes the highest standard; take your chances with “C” and below.

Chinatown Complex Food Centre is the largest, with 700 stalls. Here, you’ll find the original Hawker Chan, which won a Michelin star for its Hainaese chicken and rice, a bargain at $3.50. For something more upscale, yì by Jereme Leung interprets ancient Chinese dishes through a modern lens.

Meanwhile, the exterior of Synthesis looks like a Traditiona­l Chinese Medicine (TCM) Shop. A hidden door in the exterior apothecary-themed wall takes you into the buzzy space where TCM ingredient­s are woven into whimsical dishes and cocktails that taste as good as they look.

If you’d like to try top-notch Peranakan cuisine, look to Violet Oon for flavours inspired by the country’s Chinese, Indian and Malay heritage. If you don’t have a lot of time and want to sample a bit of everything, the epic buffet at Marriott Tang Plaza is where locals head for a seafood feast. In addition to eating as much fresh crab and lobster as you wish, there are Chinese, Indian and Western delicacies included.

While finding affordable eats is possible, alcohol comes at a premium. Throwing back a Singapore Sling, the country’s iconic cocktail, is the done thing at Raffles Long Bar. At $38, it doesn’t come cheap, but it’s more about soaking up the ambience in the historic setting.

Access to Sky Park Observatio­n Deck costs $32, but CÃ LA VI’S Sky Lounge (same location) offers the same sweeping views for a $30 cocktail. Also outdoors, Marriott Tang Plaza’s Crossroads Cafe offers a lengthy happy hour with $13 drinks.

WHERE TO STAY

While there’s no shortage of fivestar properties to rest your head at, you can’t beat Raffles Hotel for old-world glamour. Stepping onto this colonial-style all-suite property feels like you’ve stepped back in time yet with all the modern convenienc­es.

For something distinctly more modern, but equally as luxurious, the newly opened EDITION oozes stealth wealth. The lifestyle property is a master class in minimalist design, with one of those outdoor pools that has a glass bottom.

Situated on Orchard Road, Marriott Tang Plaza sports a prime location and moderately priced, spacious rooms. Their rooftop pool is totally resort-style with cabanas you don’t have to pay extra for.

AT THE AIRPORT

Before heading home, budget enough time to explore Changi Airport. (Yes, really!) The size of 19 football fields, Jewel Changi Airport boasts the world’s tallest indoor waterfall, a five-storey garden, plus over 280 shops and eateries with no sales tax. Movies are free at the 24-hour theatre in Terminal 3. Get there early to save anxiety and get distracted while waiting to fly.

TIPS FOR TRAVEL

Air Canada now flies direct to Singapore several times a week from Vancouver.

Singapore’s metro, MRT, is affordable, efficient and only requires a credit card for tap entry.

For longer distances, download Grab, their version of Uber.

Agoda is an accommodat­ion reservatio­n service — similar to the brands we’re familiar with, but with more Asia Pacific hotel partners.

 ?? DAVID COWAN ?? Visitors will feel like they’re stepping back in time at Singapore’s Raffles Hotel, a colonial-style all-suite property that features all the modern convenienc­es a tourist could want.
DAVID COWAN Visitors will feel like they’re stepping back in time at Singapore’s Raffles Hotel, a colonial-style all-suite property that features all the modern convenienc­es a tourist could want.
 ?? JODY ROBBINS ?? Ice cream-coloured Peranakan homes fill the Katongjoo Chiat neighbourh­ood.
JODY ROBBINS Ice cream-coloured Peranakan homes fill the Katongjoo Chiat neighbourh­ood.
 ?? MARRIOTT TANG PLAZA ?? Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel’s rooftop swimming pool has resort-style cabanas.
MARRIOTT TANG PLAZA Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel’s rooftop swimming pool has resort-style cabanas.
 ?? JODY ROBBINS ?? Budget enough time to explore the many sights at Jewel Changi Airport.
JODY ROBBINS Budget enough time to explore the many sights at Jewel Changi Airport.

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