KISSA TANTO, VANCOUVER
I REALLY LIKE THE WAY OCEAN PERCH turns out in the fryer. We’ve tried redbanded and other rockfish, we’ve tried bream, but perch is the best. It’s flakey and always stays nice and moist. Perch taste best at 1½ to 2 pounds, and sourcing that size is easy. They’re fished close by and are readily available, so my access is good—I can go down to the market and look at the fish instead of ordering it on the phone. And it’s sustainable, as long as it’s line-caught and from a good source. —J.W.