THERE ARE more than a few “special occasion” restaurants that maintain an aura of sophistication while doing little more than resting on their laurels, but not Scaramouche. The bar was set high nearly 40 years ago when the restaurant opened, and it has continued to try and raise it every night since. The admittedly pedestrian arrival area—the restaurant is housed in the ground floor of a highrise apartment building—is more than made up for by the expansive skyline views and the gracious service. Chef Keith Froggett’s culinary vision, executed these days by Carolyn Reid, is well-grounded in European classicism, and packs just enough of a modern inventive touch to remain interesting. Beet salad with Sicilian blood oranges, goat cheese and pistachios is classic and delicious. What else does grilled AAA Ontario filet mignon need besides mushrooms, Bordelaise and whipped potatoes? Making a case for French pasta, airy gnocchi Parisienne in duck foie gras jus are anchored by shreds of excellent duck confit, earthy sautéed mushrooms and bitter winter greens. Desserts remain a highlight even if few regulars venture away from the legendary coconut cream pie.