When I think of fall in Quebec, I think of apple-picking with my mom and brother, something I have been doing every year almost religiously. So, the apple was easy to imagine in a cocktail and Calvados is great to work with. Then came the squash adventure, which involved just about the whole kitchen staff. Their suggestion to use brown butter made it perfect. The Cirka 375—made by passionate people who are practically our neighbours—celebrates Montreal’s 375th birthday this year. It is a slightly sweet gin in the Old Tom style, using only botanicals sourced in Quebec—such as rose petals, griotte cherries, cranberries and mint—and a little honey. The cocktail’s name refers to my best friend’s uncle, Rémi Sanson, who represents both the physical components of this drink as well as the emotional meaning of it. He was born in Normandy in 1934 and lived on a farm his entire life. He’s been distilling Calvados the traditional way in his basement forever. He is an iconic legend in his village—“connu comme le loup blanc,” as the local expression says.