OLIVER & BONACINI RESTAURANTS
I love sea buckthorn. You can get it across the country, and we don’t have many native ingredients that have that pronounced citrus bright end. I’ve been using the berries for decades in savoury and sweet applications. At one point at Canoe, when I was young and punky, I declared that we’d use no citrus, and so sea buckthorn and sumac were the only way to get those flavours. From a velvety curd in a tartlet to a slap-you-across-the-face base for a pickerel ceviche, the breadth of uses is mind-boggling. We freeze them for use off-season. We use them as an addition to simple barbecue sauces and in a vinaigrette, where they give an unbelievable colour. They’re great in cocktails, too.
WHICH CAME FIRST, THE HERITAGE HEN OR ITS MULTI-COLOURED EGGS?