An­thony Walsh

OLIVER & BONACINI RESTAU­RANTS

Canada’s 100 Best - - Column -

I love sea buckthorn. You can get it across the coun­try, and we don’t have many na­tive in­gre­di­ents that have that pro­nounced cit­rus bright end. I’ve been us­ing the berries for decades in savoury and sweet ap­pli­ca­tions. At one point at Ca­noe, when I was young and punky, I de­clared that we’d use no cit­rus, and so sea buckthorn and sumac were the only way to get those flavours. From a vel­vety curd in a tart­let to a slap-you-across-the-face base for a pick­erel ce­viche, the breadth of uses is mind-bog­gling. We freeze them for use off-sea­son. We use them as an ad­di­tion to sim­ple bar­be­cue sauces and in a vinai­grette, where they give an un­be­liev­able colour. They’re great in cock­tails, too.

WHICH CAME FIRST, THE HER­ITAGE HEN OR ITS MULTI-COLOURED EGGS?

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada

© PressReader. All rights reserved.