THIS CLAM SOUP IS A FAVOURITE OF MINE IN HUA HIN, a beach town in the south of Thailand. The dish embodies successful simplicity. There is perfect balance between the savoury clam nectar and the citrus aromas of the holy basil. I wanted to recreate that—and improve on it—by adding B.C. matsutake mushrooms. The intense aroma of the pine mushrooms is a perfect complement to the clams and holy basil. My dish has Thai flavour—but it’s very Canadian. —A.A.