Details

When to go

July and August give you the best weather and choice of activities. They are also the busiest months on the roads, but drivers tend to be respectful and give cyclists plenty of space. If you’re a music fan, try to time your trip with the Edge of the World Music Festival in August for a West Coast hippie delight.

How to get there

There are regular flights between Vancouver and Prince Rupert and the Sandspit Airport on Moresby Island. You can also fly into Masset, though those flights are less frequent. Your other option is to take the seven-hour ferry from Prince Rupert. There are a couple of places to rent bikes on the island, but the selection is limited. If you’re bringing your own bike, keep in mind that there’s only one bike shop on Haida Gwaii, in Masset.

Where to stay

There are a few first-come, first-served campgrounds in Naikoon Provincial Park. There are a range of B&B options in the cities and bigger towns, including poet Susan Musgrave’s Copper Beech Guest House ( copperbeechhouse.com) up in Masset. For high-end accommodations, try Haida House ( haidahouse. com) near Tlell.

Where to eat

Sandy’s Seafood Shack in Masset, Blacktail Restaurant and Jags Beanstalk ( jagsbeanstalk.com) in Skidegate, and the Ocean View Restaurant in Queen Charlotte are all good options. For an unforgettable dining experience, make a reservation at Keenawaii’s Kitchen – the Haida chef hosts guests in her dining room for a long-table dinner of traditional foods.

What to do off the bike

Try ocean kayaking in the bay near Skidegate – you can rent kayaks from Green Coast ( gckayaking.com). Hike the Sleeping Beauty Trail. Visit the many artists’ studios on the island. If you have the time, plan an excursion down to Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve with Haida Style Expeditions ( haidastyle.com).