Canadian Cycling Magazine

Maintenanc­e

Five tips for setting treads on skinny wheels

- By Nick Di Cristofaro

How to go tubeless, roadie

Modern cycling technology can sometimes be overwhelmi­ng, especially when it comes to recent trends i n wheel and tire design. Take tubeless tires and wheels. These aren’t new technologi­es, but recently, many tire and wheel manufactur­ers have started to offer more tubeless options.

With the popularity of wider tires and gravel riding these days, tubeless has begun to be the more logical choice. Since there is no tube inside, pinch flats are virtually eliminated. You also have the ability to run lower air pressures, which can make for a more comfortabl­e, even faster, ride. You can usually run 10 to 20 fewer p.s.i. than you normally would with a tubed tire. These are the reasons tubeless became popular with mountain bikers, and then gravel and cyclocross riders. The skinny-tire road rider can also benefit from going tubeless.

A tubeless setup has less rolling resistance: you get more speed for less effort when compared with the traditiona­l clincher tire and tube setup. Since a clincher has a tube inside, friction between the tube and tire actually create a little more resistance. It seems like a small penalty, but it’s been proven to be enough to convince many to convert. The ability to run lower air pressure without the risk of pinch flats while not suffering a performanc­e loss is also a big plus for roadies.

With all these pros come a few cons as well. Sealant can be messy. Installs can sometimes be difficult and leaks can occur if the setup is not done properly. But, if you follow my tips, you’ll be rolling more efficientl­y in no time.

Choose the right tire/rim

Never try to set up a clincher tire “tubeless.” The design in the bead of a clincher is quite different than a tubeless tire. Tubeless tires have a much stiffer bead to be able to form an airtight seal on the rim. Trying to run a clincher tire tubeless could possibly blow the tire off the rim. Always use a tubeless-specific tire and rim. The beauty of tubeless is that you can go “backwards:” you can use a tube in a tubeless tire/rim to get you home if you get a flat and the sealant inside doesn’t plug the hole. This situation is rare, but can happen.

Invest in an air compressor or tubeless pump

One dreaded fact of installing tubeless tires is that sometimes they can be difficult to inflate. Having a good “shot” of air to blast the tire onto the rim makes life easier. A tubeless-tire pump achieves this by allowing you to pump up an air canister built into it, and then release the charge of air all at once. (An air compressor will do this job better but is not as portable as the pump.)

Inspect the rim

If you can, choose a solid rim: there are no spoke-nipple holes. A solid rim means you won’t have to tape it to seal it off. If you have a rim with spoke-nipple holes, be very vigilant in your preparatio­n of the rim prior to taping it. If the rim is not totally clean and dry (inside and out), the tape will not adhere properly and you will get leaks. Clean up any old glue residue and old sealant. Make sure there is no liquid inside the rim. Clean the rim with alcohol or contact cleaner that leaves no residue.

Don’t overdo it with the sealant

You really don’t need that much for a 25c to 28c tire. About 30 to 50 ml is all it takes. I’ve seen lots of people pouring it in and all that does is create a mess and increases weight. Use a valve stem with a removable core. Inject the sealant into the tire with a cheap syringe via the valve stem. (The syringe also acts as a measuring tool.) Some sealant manufactur­ers actually make nice syringes that screw into the valve stem. They are really not that expensive and make the sealant applicatio­n much easier.

Centre the tire bead for success

If you are having difficulty getting the last bit of tire bead onto the rim, make sure that the opposite side is in the centre of the rim in the recess and not on the edge of the rim at the sealing edge. The rim’s diameter is at its smallest in the centre, so setting one bead there will get you the most space for pushing the last bit of the bead over. I have seen many riders struggling to get a tire on (both tubeless and clincher). After I push the same tire into the centre of the rim, I can then push the rest of it on effortless­ly with my hands.

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If your rim has exposed spokenippl­e holes, you will need a rim strip. Clean the rim with isopropyl alcohol before taping. Make sure you have the correct width of tubeless-specific tape for your rim
left If your rim has exposed spokenippl­e holes, you will need a rim strip. Clean the rim with isopropyl alcohol before taping. Make sure you have the correct width of tubeless-specific tape for your rim
 ??  ?? Pour sealant through the valve. The right amount of liquid ensures a good seal but no mess
Pour sealant through the valve. The right amount of liquid ensures a good seal but no mess
 ??  ?? By keeping one bead in the centre of the rim, you’ll find it easier to get the second bead into position
By keeping one bead in the centre of the rim, you’ll find it easier to get the second bead into position

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