Canadian Geographic

‘LISTEN TO WHAT THE LAND WANTS, LISTEN TO WHAT THE LAKE WANTS, LISTEN TO WHAT THE ANIMALS WANT.’

How the Sahtuto’ine Dene of Déline created the Tsá Tué Biosphere Reserve, the world’s first such UNESCO site managed by an Indigenous community

- By Laurie Sarkadi with photograph­y by Angela Gzowski

How the Sahtuto’ine Dene of Déline created the Northwest Territorie­s’ Tsá Tué Biosphere Reserve, the world’s first such UNESCO site to be managed by an Indigenous community

IN 1865, more than a century before computer models began pointing toward a future where drought, heat waves and hurricanes bring the world’s population to its knees, an eight-year-old boy from Déline, a small community on the southweste­rn shore of Great Bear Lake in the Northwest Territorie­s, began having visions. The story goes that the boy, Louis Ayah, was visited by angels throughout his lifetime who rolled out glimpses of the future, prompting him to issue some 30 prophecies, several of which came to pass: white men discovered shiny, glass-like rocks (diamonds); something that’s not a cigarette but is rolled by twisting the paper ends became harmful to kids (marijuana); and Déline came to be led by one united body, the Déline Got’ine government — the administra­tion that as of Sept. 1, 2016, oversees the Northwest Territorie­s’ first independen­tly self-governed community.

One of Ayah’s prophecies that hasn’t yet been fully realized, however, is Déline’s role in a looming climate change apocalypse: Great Bear, the world’s eighth largest lake, will be the last place on Earth people can fish; parched and hungry migrants will flock to its deep, clear waters; boats will jostle for space; Déline must prepare. On a 28 C day in August in Déline, just before the new government takes over, Ayah’s prognostic­ation doesn’t seem far-fetched. “When I was a kid, the hottest it ever got here in summer was about 15 degrees,” says Walter Bezha, integrated resource management advisor for the new government’s lands, resources and environmen­t department. Bezha has managed the sprawling boreal lands surroundin­g Déline for years, first under the region’s 1993 Sahtu Dene and Metis Comprehens­ive Land Claim Agreement and now as a member of Déline Got’ine’s nascent bureaucrac­y. More than 20 years in the making, the self-government agreement that led him to this point lifts the nearly 500 mostly Indigenous people of Déline out of Canada’s Indian Act, quashes the territoria­l government’s designatio­n of Déline as a charter community (a blend of band and municipal government­s) and integrates the Deline Land Corporatio­n from the region’s land claim agreement into one government with decision-making powers in areas such as education, health, justice, language and community lands. It also explains why he’s trapped in his office sorting out how to shrink three levels of government into one. His job is to “listen to what the land wants, listen to what the lake wants, listen to what the animals want,” and make decisions using scientific data and the Sahtuto’ine

Dene people’s giant body of knowledge on the area’s ecology and biodiversi­ty, amassed over eons. Outside Bezha’s office, men wrestle the imposing antlers off a moose they’ve hunted, women slice fresh red meat from a caribou leg for a funeral, and on what UNESCO calls “the last pristine Arctic lake,” people motor

small aluminum boats to their nets, where glittering trout await. To keep the lake thriving, in 2005 a working group of elders, young leaders, stakeholde­rs and representa­tives from the federal and territoria­l government­s created “The Water Heart,” a watershed management plan explicitly informed by the Sahtuto’ine Dene’s deeply held spiritual belief that Tudzé, a sacred water heart, beats at the bottom of the lake. Its critical life force connects all living things and must be honoured and protected for eternity. The Water Heart later was included in the region’s Sahtu Land Use Plan, which prohibits developmen­t in core protected areas and creates buffer zones where limited developmen­t can occur, providing it doesn’t threaten the lake’s ecology. With these efforts to regain governance and stewardshi­p over their traditiona­l territory, the Sahtuto’ine Dene of Déline have created what is possibly the most cohesive and comprehens­ive Indigenous-led water conservati­on plan of modern times — one that UNESCO held up as a model for the rest of the world in March 2016, when Déline became the first Indigenous community to achieve UNESCO biosphere reserve status for its management of the Great Bear watershed. The Tsá Tué Biosphere Reserve, which spans more than nine million hectares — an area the size of Maine — and has a core protected area of two million hectares, is the largest in North America and the first in Canada’s North. While the designatio­n is more an award of excellence, it endorses and promotes Déline’s management tools internatio­nally as the gold-star standard for balanced relationsh­ips between humans and the biosphere.

GINA BAYHA HELPED i niti at e Déline’s UNESCO applicatio­n in 2013. When elders learned of the 669 biosphere reserves in UNESCO’S global network, they insisted Déline apply. “I’ve never heard elders being so forceful before — they’re usually so kind and patient,” she says. The fact the biosphere designatio­n holds no regulatory teeth didn’t diminish their stridency.

“They didn’t care about enforcing rules. They wanted a strong voice, and I said, ‘What’s the point?’ And they said, ‘If other people hear our stories, it’s sharing, it’s networking.’ It’s sharing how they’ve lived this way so long, their connection­s, not just to the water, but to the air, the animals.” Bezha says Ayah’s doomsday divination and the belief in Tudzé, the sacred water heart, underpin his people’s sense of urgency to keep the lake writhing with trout, cisco, whitefish and Arctic grayling while sustaining species such as muskox, wolves, caribou and wolverines. “People will say, ‘Oh these are just legends,’” says Bezha. “Not so. It’s our history, the Dene history, and there’s a lot more to a lot of the things they’re talking about.” The Water Heart management plan stresses the interconne­ctedness of all things and the necessity of caring for the world and all its people — Dene and non-dene alike. The elders profoundly understand this, many of them having unwittingl­y carried the uranium used in the atomic bombs that devastated Hiroshima and Nagasaki — events Ayah had also prophesied prior to 1942, the year his people began working at the federally owned Eldorado Mine at Port Radium on Great Bear Lake’s eastern shore. There, they hauled dusty sacks of radioactiv­e material without protective clothing or warning of the harm it could do. Many died of cancers. Decades later, survivors travelled to Japan to apologize, but the entire painful era, including ongoing remediatio­n at the mine and in the lake — and the failure of the government to safeguard workers from health risks — strengthen­ed Déline’s resolve to control what happens in their homelands.

DÉLINE NEEDS TO convey such history, along with the hundreds of encycloped­ic entries unilingual elders have in their heads about trails and burial sites or the ecology of a bay during fish spawning or caribou migratory habits, so future generation­s can integrate that knowledge into biosphere management. Using a combinatio­n of geographic informatio­n

systems, Google Earth and software that allows you to simultaneo­usly see and hear a Sahtu Dene language place name along with its English translatio­n, the Dene Mapping Project is doing just that. “It’s a linguistic gold mine here,” says Phoebe Tatti, a Déline native with a master’s degree in language and education who heads the project. “Each one of the 250 place names we have so far is associated with a story or a legend as to how the name came about.” That innovative approach to conservati­on education is part of why Déline’s biosphere bid is backed by The Pew Charitable Trusts, the U.s.-based public-policy nonprofit. Pew is helping Déline develop ecotourism and meet its UNESCO obligation to research and monitor water quality and wildlife population­s — especially dwindling caribou herds. Steven Kallick, Pew’s director of internatio­nal lands conservati­on, says

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 ??  ?? Clockwise from above: Gordon Taniton (right) and other drummers help celebrate Déline’s UNESCO status; a fishing boat on the lake; Roberta Dolphus cuts moose ribs.
Clockwise from above: Gordon Taniton (right) and other drummers help celebrate Déline’s UNESCO status; a fishing boat on the lake; Roberta Dolphus cuts moose ribs.
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WITH PHOTOGRAPH­Y BY ANGELA GZOWSKI
 ??  ?? Clockwise from above left: Russel Kenny pulls a trout from his nets; Kí Karkigie cuts moose meat; elder Charlie Neyelle in his teepee; elder Rosie Mantla prays during the celebratio­n of Déline’s UNESCO status; Mandy Bayha wrings out a moose hide.
Clockwise from above left: Russel Kenny pulls a trout from his nets; Kí Karkigie cuts moose meat; elder Charlie Neyelle in his teepee; elder Rosie Mantla prays during the celebratio­n of Déline’s UNESCO status; Mandy Bayha wrings out a moose hide.
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