Canadian Geographic

ᕿᑭᖅᑖᓗᒃ

It means Qikiqtaalu­k, the Inuktitut name for Baffin Island. Explore how people live in the nine communitie­s of Canada’s largest island.

- Story and photograph­y by Nick Walker

It means ‘Baffin Island’ in Inuktitut. Explore how people now live in the nine communitie­s of the largest island in Canada’s Arctic Archipelag­o.

BAFFIN STANDS alone, really. Settled for a handful of decades but peopled for millennia, it outsizes Canada’s second biggest island, Victoria Island, by an area about the size of Italy. Only four other islands in the world are larger — Madagascar, Borneo, New Guinea and Greenland. And Baffin is hardly half a million square kilometres of barren wilderness. More than 17,000 people (48 per cent of Nunavut’s population) live here and on small surroundin­g islands in nine coastal communitie­s including Iqaluit, the territory’s capital and only city. Settled only since the mid-20th century when federal policies moved Inuit off the land, Nunavut is now Canada’s fastest growing region, and Iqaluit had the largest increase of the capitals since the 2011 census. With an average age of less than 25 and almost double the national birth rate, the territory also has the youngest population. Residents, meanwhile, face the country’s highest cost of living, and housing shortages and aging infrastruc­ture are no secret: it’s difficult and often prohibitiv­ely expensive to ship materials and construct and maintain buildings in the North. Everything from swiftly depleted federal funding to climate contribute­s to overcrowdi­ng and waiting lists for homes hundreds of people long in some communitie­s. By necessity, around two-thirds of all housing in Baffin’s hamlets is subsidized. But things may be looking up. While it could take a decade or more, a burgeoning mining industry and the promise of a deep-sea port in Iqaluit, fibre-optic communicat­ions connection­s and even hydroelect­ricity and wind power (rather than diesel generation) installed in some communitie­s could by extension help ease residentia­l woes. “The housing crisis is real,” says Brent Crooks, vice-president of NCC Properties Ltd., an Inuit-owned property management company that develops and leases Nunavut infrastruc­ture. “But things have come a long way in the last 10 years. You could have come to the North before that and thought, ‘This is a forgotten people.’ ” Besides government buildings such as the Nunavut Legislativ­e Assembly, NCC has built hundreds of residentia­l units in Nunavut, including in five of the Baffin communitie­s. Crooks has lived in Iqaluit since 1978 and, as one example of new momentum, points to the ongoing efforts of the Qikiqtaalu­k Corporatio­n (an Inuit economic developmen­t corporatio­n) to have Nova Scotia-designed NACSI homes certified for use in Nunavut. Not only could these sturdy resin-infused and insulated, jute-fibre-walled homes be easily manufactur­ed in the hamlets, they could drasticall­y reduce material and constructi­on costs. Decades of growing pains are still ahead, perhaps. But through it all, Inuit are fostering and taking part in traditiona­l cultural activities in the settlement­s and across this huge land mass. Read on for more about Baffin’s communitie­s and how the island’s ancestral peoples came to live in them.

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