Canadian Geographic

PLACE

Quebec’s newest provincial park preserves a unique chapter of Ottawa River history

- By Alexandra Pope

Parc national d’opémican, Quebec’s newest provincial park

ITS NAME IS an Algonquin word that loosely translates to “along the path followed by the tribes” — a reference, perhaps, to the Ottawa River. For nearly a century, it was a major staging area for logging operations in the Upper Ottawa Valley. This summer, it will be a hub for a different kind of activity when Quebec’s newest provincial park opens on June 21.

Parc national d’opémican, which protects 252 square kilometres of forested land between the Ontario-quebec border and Lac Kipawa, about 400 kilometres northwest of Ottawa, is the realizatio­n of a nearly 40-year dream for people in the Abitibi-témiscamin­gue region who wanted to see the remains of the timber rafting relay station at Pointe Opémican, on Lac Témiscamin­gue, preserved. In the 1880s and ’90s, squared logs of white and red pine bound for Britain and America were assembled here into enormous rafts of as many as 3,000 individual logs to be driven down the Ottawa River to Montreal or Quebec City. “Pointe Opémican was a unique place at that time,” says Dany Gareau, the park’s director. “People there were even developing new techniques and tools to improve the job,” including largerthan-normal booms capable of handling the frequent high waves on the lake

By the turn of the 20th century, steampower­ed tugboats had replaced the raftsmen, and although the site continued to be used by the Upper Ottawa Improvemen­t Company for boat maintenanc­e and storage until the late 1970s, the original buildings, including the blacksmith­ing workshop and the house erected in 1883 by superinten­dent Joseph Jodoin’s family, fell into disrepair. The road to redevelopi­ng the site for tourism would be a long one.

Community groups first approached the Quebec ministry for forests, wildlife and parks in 2002 with a proposal to save Pointe Opémican by integratin­g it into a provincial park, but it took more than a decade for the ministry to finalize the boundaries of the park. In 2013, responsibi­lity for the park’s developmen­t was transferre­d to the Société des établissem­ents de plein air du Québec (SÉPAQ), the Crown corporatio­n that manages 24 of the province’s parks and 13 wildlife reserves. As constructi­on began on roads and campsites and the park’s three scenic hiking trails were blazed, SÉPAQ struck a roundtable made up of representa­tives from the local municipali­ties, including the Wolf Lake and Kebaowek First Nations, to keep them updated on the progress.

At first there were a lot of questions, says Patricia Noël, president of the unorganize­d territory of Laniel on the park’s northeaste­rn border, which has just 80 year-round residents. “A lot of people were scared that with the park, they would lose the tranquilit­y and the wilderness they found here. We want to develop tourism, but in a way that respects nature.”

Now, she says, with the park’s opening imminent, uncertaint­y has given way to excitement at the possibilit­ies for showcasing the region.

“It’s not just the beautiful views,” she says. “I can’t explain it, but we have ‘wow’ here.”

See photos and video of Parc national d'opémican at cangeo.ca/mj19/opemican.

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 ??  ?? The Rivière Kipawa passes through the park ( left). The home of logging superinten­dent Joseph Jodoin ( top), built in 1883.
The Rivière Kipawa passes through the park ( left). The home of logging superinten­dent Joseph Jodoin ( top), built in 1883.

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