Canadian Living

something old, something new

With more than 400 years of history and a bustling contempora­ry cultural scene, Quebec City offers a trove of things to uncover—for repeat visitors and newcomers alike.

- BY JES WATSON

History Lesson

Auberge SaintAntoi­ne boasts gorgeously modern rooms in a historic wharf and cannon battery. Each room features a display of an artifact found on the site, such as 18th- century china plates or a charming pair of centuries- old dominoes. Some rooms include a private terrace, where you can take in the city sights (or a glass of wine) after a day of trekking through town.

Off the Beaten Path

Spend a night in a former nun’s cell at Le Monastère des Augustines. This freshly restored site features wellness packages (think massages, yoga classes and meditation) and paredback-but-comfy suites in a 377-year-old building.

Classic Eats

Stop in at Le Chic Shack for an updated take on Quebec’s most- beloved regional dish: poutine. With toppings such as smoked meat, mushrooms and even masala- curry sauce, this isn’t your average potatoes and gravy.

Cocktails and Bites

The Grande Allée is home to some of Quebec City’s most luxurious estates— and L’atelier, a swish restaurant that’s a veritable hot spot come sundown. Don’t miss the twist on surf and turf, lobster and beef tartare served with a side of deliciousl­y crispy frites.

Local Hero

Nordic ingredient­s drive the menu at Chez Boulay bistro boréal, where chefs Arnaud Marchand and Jean- Luc Boulay excel at inventive takes on culinary traditions that showcase regional flavours. A beet tarte tatin, for example, is drizzled with citrusy, semisweet birch syrup, whereas a velvety sea buckthorn meringue tart is a clever take on classic lemon meringue pie.

State of the Art

The Musée national des beaux- arts du Québec sits adjacent to the historic Plains of Abraham, but its new Pierre Lassonde Pavilion has a distinctly modern edge. Take in works by Québécois artists such as Riopelle and David Altmejd, and don’t miss the impressive Inuit art collection.

Shop Talk

Venture beyond the city’s fortified walls to explore the charming St-roch district, which is dotted with art galleries, boutiques and coffee shops (a latte at Saint-henri micro-roaster is a must).

Old School

The Petit- Champlain neighbourh­ood is one of the oldest commercial districts in North America, so shops abound, but don’t miss Musée de la civilisati­on for an afternoon immersion course in the Québécois and First Nations cultures.

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