Canadian Trails
Elfin Lakes, Squamish, B.C.
Squamish is one of the best places in the world to explore the vast wonderland of terrain above the tree line. It’s where trails snake their way along exposed ridges, across rolling meadows bursting with wildf lowers, to the toes of glaciers or crystal blue tarns, or the summits of mountains that remain inaccessible for most of the year.
As the centrepiece of world famous Sea to Sky country, Garibaldi Provincial Park is a phenomenally scenic playground encompassing nearly 2,000 square kilometres between Squamish and Pemberton, just an hour north of Vancouver. The park boasts numerous well-groomed trails to wild destinations such as Taylor Meadows, Panorama Ridge and the Helm Creek cinder f lats surrounding the mighty, iconic Black Tusk. Whilst the possibilities for mountain running throughout Garibaldi are vast, the park ’s southern Diamond Head region sits just outside of Squamish, offering trail runners quick and convenient access to a gigantic slice of mountain running heaven.
Diamond Head features the Elfin Lakes Trail, which follows Paul Ridge for 11 kilometres to the idyllic Elfin Lakes, and the Elfin Shelter, a popular backcountry hut perched below the southern slopes of Mount Garibaldi.
The trail to Elfin Lakes couldn’t be easier to follow. From a large gravel parking lot, the route leads up a forested Jeep track for five kilometres to the Red Heather Hut, a small warming hut at the tree line with kitchen facilities and a wood-burning stove, used primarily by backcountry skiers in winter. From here, it continues another six kilometres to Elfin Lakes on a wide-groomed path with a gentle incline, with absolutely epic views in 360 degrees. To the west is the jagged, Alps-like Tantalus Range. To the east is the mighty sprawl of the Mamquam massif. And to the immediate north, well that’s Mount Garibaldi and Atwell Peak, commonly known as Diamond Head. Appearing as one, this twin-peaked dome dominates the Squamish Valley backdrop and is impossible to miss.
The area in general has been wildly popular for nearly a century. The original Diamond Head Lodge was built by Norwegians Emil and Ottar Brandvold, and Canadian Joan Mathews in the 1930s. For over 30 years the lodge was a renowned destination for hikers, snowshoers and skiers all who came for the breathtaking scenery. The lodge eventually closed down in 1973 but was replaced with the current Elfin Shelter in 1974.
It’s safe to say that Elfin Lakes is one of British Columbia’s most beloved alpine regions, and a jewel of Garibaldi Provincial Park. Runners seeking a little extra distance can venture up to Saddle Ridge to overlook the fabled Gargoyles, a series of rotten and exposed volcanic spines. But most will stop at Elfin Lakes, enjoying the area as an out and back alpine run that will sear into mind as a rugged, colourful and surprisingly accessible piece of B.C.’s most iconic wilderness.
Trail Basics
The trail to Elfin Lakes is predominantly a hard-packed doubletrack with very few terrain obstacles. It’s also well marked with signposts at every junction, making this accessible to even novice trail runners. Wildlife sightings are common and eagles, ptarmigan, deer, marmots and even black bears may be encountered en route, so be aware and take precautions. Due to this healthy wildlife population, and also environmental restoration efforts, dogs are not allowed on this or any other trails in Garibaldi Provincial Park. Note that there are toilets at the parking area, Red Heather meadows, and at Elfin Lakes. Water is available along the trail and at Elfin Lakes, and cellular reception is generally good, although in the mountains this should never be relied upon.
Logistics
The Elfin Lakes/Diamond Head trailhead is barely 30 minutes east of Squamish. From Highway 99 at the downtown Squamish traffic lights, head 3.8 kilometres north and turn right onto Mamquam Road, at the Canadian Tire. Follow Mamquam Road past the golf course (road turns to gravel) and then up the hill to Quest University (road turns to pavement). From here, the road becomes sportier as it continues uphill as the Garibaldi Park FSR, and after 16 kilometres you’ll reach the large gravel parking lot with a map kiosk, gate and outhouse.