Canadian Trails
The Historic Chilkoot Trail, Alaska, B.C., Yukon
Since the turn of the nineteenth century, the Chilkoot Trail has lured thousands of people to the trailhead in Dyea, Alaska. The trail was used as a trade and travel route by the coastal Tlingit and interior Athapaskan First Nations for millennia. When prospectors struck gold near Dawson City in 1896, few could have imagined the stampede of men and women who would descend on Dyea and tackle this 53-kilometre trail between Dyea, Alaska and Bennet Lake, Yukon. Although the glory days of the Gold Rush were short lived, the lure of the Chilkoot Trail has not lost its lustre. Indeed, National Park Services states that over 10,000 people complete the route each year, but they now come in the form of backpackers and an increasing number of trail runners. What was once a soulcrushing, three-week journey can now be completed in a single day. The trailhead is located just outside of Skagway, Alaska, at the northern tip of the Inside Passage. The single-track trail winds its way up the narrow valley of the Taiya River. The Alaskan half of the trail is situated in dense Temperate Alaskan Forest. The dark mulch trail contrasts beautifully with the vibrant green moss that blankets the canopy f loor. Along the trail, you’ll pass relics of former settlements. It is amazing to imagine that there were once bustling hotels and saloons with street lights here. Rusting cables, boilers and rotten wood are all that remain to remind you of a world long since passed.
The valley continues to narrow and the rainforest fades as you near the summit, with vistas of alpine glaciers nestled in the crowns of mountain peaks. To reach the summit, you must scramble up the infamous “Golden Stairs,” a large, steep boulder field, which takes time to negotiate. Thousands of stampeders toiled up and down the pass hauling their gear to the other side – truly back breaking work. The pass marks the highest point of the trail and lies on the border between Canadian and the U.S. A commemorative plaque at the saddle is all that indicates that you’re entering Canada. A short jaunt down the trail is a small warming hut, proudly waving a Canadian f lag. It’s also the halfway point of the trail and a good spot to rest up for the second half.
The Canadian side of the trail lies in the rain shadow of the Alaskan Coastal Mountains and
therefore, receives significantly less precipitation. From the warming hut, you descend down into an undulating barren landscape. Scoured by glaciers and void of trees, the terrain resembles a lunar surface. The glacial lakes and screaming collared pikas (a mammal in the rabbit family) bring you back to Earth as you continue to descend. Vibrant alpine meadows appear again as you run down the dirt track.
With 15 kilometres to go you’ll find yourself leaving the meadows and entering the boreal forest. The trees are noticeably smaller here than the giants you encountered on the Alaskan side and the forest f loor is covered in grey reindeer lichen. This area of the trail is notorious for bear encounters so sing and holler as you go. The remaining trail climbs and drops through dense forest, with brief glimpses of Lindeman Lake before terminating at the southern shores of Bennett Lake.
There are no roads to this area of Bennett Lake, so a f loatplane, or the White Pass Train are your only options to leave the area. You’ll have to confirm your plans prior to starting the trail. The f loatplane takes you on a scenic f light back to Whitehorse while the train will take you to either Carcross or back to Skagway. Train service is limited so you’ll want to plan your start time accordingly. Wherever you finish, you’ll have plenty of restaurants to choose from to replace all those calories and revel in the adventure.