Sara Says...
When we’re globetrotting for flavours, the place we usually want to land is Italy. Steven Salari has brought the generosity and honesty of classic Italian cuisine from the College St. ghetto to upscale Ave & Dav. Open just weeks, his regular clientele is flocking back, and neighborhood passersby have discovered their new favourite resto. In plain speak, the room is sexy (lighting is everything) with white leather booths, and a bar that invites us to linger and have another glass of wine. Coco Lezzone not just a special-occasion restaurant, but there is a private chef’s table, and an even more discreet private dining room where a few friends can come to celebrate.
The menu offers the dishes that made us fall in love with Italian cooking in the first place. The true test is the tomato sauce. Here, it’s made in the kitchen by someone with a canny hand and intelligent taste buds. Linguine pomodori is just plain good eating. Serve me the caprese salad, a stack of thickly layered tomatoes and boconncini with swirls of sweet basil balsamic dressing, with a basket of homemade, olive-studded rolls and I’m happy. The signature dish is whole grilled striped bass that serves two admirably. I am eyeing a plate of veal scaloppini being enjoyed at a neighbouring table. I’ve put it in my little black book for a return visit.