Sara Says...

DINE and Destinations - - PORTLAND -

Fier­amosca was an an­cient Ital­ian war­rior, a folk­lore hero. The restau­rant that bears his name is in an unas­sum­ing white brick town­house in a neigh­bour­hood of his­toric homes.

Walls are re­splen­dent with wine racks, ar­ti­facts, mem­o­ra­bilia and a great wood-burn­ing fire­place. The mood in La Nan­d­ina, the hand­some third-floor pri­vate din­ing room, is great for a gre­gar­i­ous bunch of up to 40 cel­e­brants, and has its own out­door ter­race. In sum­mer, the reg­u­lars are the first to book the flower-filled back pa­tio.

But how do we love Fier­amosca? Let me count the ways: sautéed shrimp in white wine with car­ciofi in tomato-cream sauce thrills with ev­ery bite; funghi saltati is a sautée of ex­otic mush­rooms, dressed with fresh herbs and wear­ing a jaunty cap of brie. They know that some peo­ple want a bit of ev­ery­thing, and they pro­duce it: grigliati di carne is a sump­tu­ous plat­ter of grilled quail, lamb, sausage, chicken and veal. In the end, it is my af­fec­tion for the sig­na­ture dish, Lin­guine Fier­amosca for two: a tan­gle of pasta plump with lob­ster, crab, mus­sels, squid and clams in tomato or white wine sauce. The wine list com­ple­ments the foods they serve. Go to Fier­amosca when you need some Ital­ian soul food, and Ital­ian hos­pi­tal­ity.

You will come away to­tally ful­filled.

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