CARISMA

The dynamic duo of Margie and Michael Pagliaro just keeps getting better. Now joined by daughter Monica, this is their most ambitious and mature restaurant to date, and tenders a wine list worth reading for its many highlights. The sophisticated black interior features a beautiful bar at the rear, which has become a favourite dining spot of many a customer. This family understands hospitality and, here, you are entering the home of friends.

If you have made enough decisions that day and simply want something delicious to eat, you will be thrilled with the antipasto platter. And if bread is your downfall, watch out. The crusty, just-baked loaf with its sprinkle of rosemary and slick of olive oil will get you. Tell the server you are torn between bresaola and caprese salad of tomato and creamy burrata cheese, and he might bring you both. All the classic Italian dishes are on the menu, but Michael’s loyal clientele know that the kitchen is flexible. Indecisive? Ricotta gnocchi, or papardelle with boar ragout, or truffled tagliolini with duck confit—you can have a little of each. Of course there is delicate veal picatta al limone, and a half chicken flattened by a brick as it cooks, but the rack of lamb is still my favourite main course on the menu.