DOPPIO ZERO

Armeni Domenico and son Natale Domenico came preheralded as the proprietors of the celebrated Montreal restaurant Lucca. Now, in partnership with Francesco Cardinale, they have opened Doppio Zero (Double 00—license for the most highly refined Italian flour). In the months since it opened, it has gained a fantastic following. Authenticity is key, and they try to get all their ingredients across the board from Calabria.

The room itself is unpretentious and casual, a long bar seats local residents enjoying thin crunchy pizzas from the embers of the wood-burning oven. The dough— whole wheat or gluten free—has rested and fermented for 36 hours to its optimum sweetness. The drink du jour is a Sicilian Caesar cocktail, plush with olives and finished with Italian sausage and Parmesan on the rim.

Wooden communal tables add a warm rustic ambience. We come for the food because we’ve learned we can’t eat décor. The chef has his finger on the pulse of the seasons. In summer, light, refreshing burrata on orange Carpaccio is firm with a creamy centre and a citric kiss. In this “good eating neighbourhood” we come for the hidden gems on the menu. Try Panzanella Salad, a chopped salad of tomato, cucumber and crusty croutons drizzled with a light anchovy dressing and topped with thick slices of seared tuna. And to share, a whole grilled Spigola, a white firm-fleshed fish with just a drizzle of olive, lemon and herbs, brings out its oceanic best. This is a restaurant with a pedigree that serves classic dishes with a creative twist. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.