DINE and Destinations

British Columbia

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Most of the population lives on the coast and that's only a sliver of the province. Salmon is the definitive iconic west coast ingredient. It's all about salmon: sockeye, pink, chum, Coho, Chinook, steelhead, cutthroat, and rainbow trout. The style of cooking in the Pacific Northwest usually involves smoking or grilling with cedar, but there is also candied salmon and salmon jerky. Traditiona­l dishes range from steamed clams, and fish and chips, to highlighti­ng seasonal varieties like spot prawn. Fish and seafood proliferat­e the menus: big beach oysters, Dungeness crab, Qualicum Bay scallops, Manila clams, steaming scallops, urchins and Albacore tuna. Seaweed is also gaining popularity with chefs.

Pacific Northwest cuisine also factors in the Pacific Rim. (The very first Chinese buffet originated in Vancouver.) There are large Asian and Indian influences with respect to ingredient­s and aesthetics. “We have the creative freedom to incorporat­e internatio­nal influences, and still identify it as Canadian cuisine, because they're all part of our culture,” shares Chef Warren Barr

(Wickaninni­sh Inn). He tells me that the main ingredient­s are the ideals they have. His “surf ‘n' turf, connecting land and sea, is a steelhead salmon poached in hemlock oil with chanterell­es in a broth of beets and blackberri­es.

Foraging along the coast and in the forest provides salmon berries, thimbleber­ries, and evergreen huckleberr­ies. BC fruits are robust, and there is a bounty of vegetables. BC'S wine industry in the Okanagan Valley produces high quality fruit-forward wines that are second to none. Vancouver restaurant­s are conscious of sustainabi­lity, Native and Asian influences, and maintain a vibrant and eclectic cocktail culture.

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