Los Cabos
At Play in Los Cabos
There are, in this small peninsula in Baja California, powerful forces of nature at play. The mountains meet the desert, the desert meets the ocean, and the Sea of Cortez and Pacific Ocean meet at the tip. “This is the aquarium of the world,” said Jacques Cousteau. I’m on a sailing excursion to see whales cavort with their babies. A Korean artist has painted the tip of a rock formation in a shiny robe, as if a monk in prayer. Some tourists climb to the very tip of the highest rock formation to pose for selfies. Don’t step backwards! Please!
THE FAÇADE OF THE VICEROY IS BONE WHITE, and looms starkly against a brilliant blue sky, shielding the magic inside from casual passersby. Inside, I am mesmerized by the vast area of infinity pools and walkways that take guests to their rooms or condos in the surrounding buildings. We can stroll along the ocean or walk to a mysterious huge pod made of twigs. Canadians will picture a beaver dam. I follow the walkway and enter El Nido just in time for lunch. Sunshine through the twigs creates a quivering dappled pattern, as if the room were alive. Local cuisine is enticing: oysters with a splash of scotch bonnet, ponzu, or lemony sake. I would be remiss if I didn’t indulge in a handmade tortilla with lamb Barbacoa. Sauced with borracha, it ranks as the most delicious taco of my life. At breakfast on the patio at Casero I virtuously order tropical Bircher Meusli with coconut, fruits and almonds, while my friend goes all out native with short rib Birria chilaquilis with black beans, cheese, sour cream and avocado capped by a froth of scrambled eggs. Cielomar, the rooftop dining room, extends its reach into the fiery sunset over the blue sea. Flickering candles and coloured pastel lights of condo terraces illuminate the night. The show-off dish of gnocchi, chocolata clams, foie gras and beurre blanc is followed by another spectacular, marinated rye whiskey duck with amarena cherries. It’s a dizzying display of flavors worthy of nature’s spectacular backdrop. www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/losc-cabos
The “all inclusive” Le Blanc Spa Resort ranks as one of the most luxurious of it’s genre. With a Mayordomo on each floor, even the most minimal needs are met. Premium spirits line the bar, and the mini bar is filled with goodies–all complimentary. Even long distance calls to Canada, USA and Mexico are free. Just to check, I immediately phone home. The hydrotherapy area with its holistic healththrough-water treatment awaits. After a quick
shower, a sauna detox, the ice room, another shower and relaxation in the swimming poolsize whirlpool. A massage revitalizes me and a glass of chlorophyll water refreshes. Energized now, I could take in Spanish lessons, Name That Tune, Bocciball, Ping-pong or any number of activities. There are eight unique restaurants and six bars to choose from: Blanc Café, Italia, Asia, international, Lumiere, Mezze, Ocean, Pizza, and afternoon tea in the Lobby Bar. I take a trip around the culinary world and find joy at every outpost. www.leblancsparesorts.com/loscabos/en
LOS TRES GALLOS
Michel Zermeno has created his cucina artisanal Mexicana, as a living legacy to the values and cooking of his mother. Seeking authenticity, we find it here. I look up and see that we are open to the sky, enclosed in four walls. Rain would not dare intrude on this scene. Tortilla soup, a classic, offers a taste thrill in every spoonful. Fresh local fish is steam-grilled and sauced with a blend of white wine, garlic and chili, and leaves me breathless. Dessert? Tres leches cake with a shot of tequila is a perfect nightcap. www.lostresgallos.com
EL MIRADOR
The path up the hill to El Mirador is lined with vibrant fuschia bougainvillia that gleams in the late day sun. With its pointy thatched roof, El Mirador looks like the Disney castle of the bad witch. But once inside, with windows open to sea and sky, the natural, hewn-wood architecture of the room gleams in the brilliant gold/red sunset. The mixologist’s cocktails are a portent of the delectable dishes to come. Everything on the menu is raised, grown and fished on the property. Proving once again that you can have both a magnificent view and exquisite cuisine.
ACRE
Today we’re going to a farm to have a mixology class, a cooking class and lunch. The marble entrance to Acre leads into a forest of trees and foliage with clearings for a bar, an outdoor café, vast gardens and a gorgeous hotel. Some farm. At the bar, the mixologist uses ingredients grown and distilled right on the property, and the delicious freshness of the cocktails lulls me into forgetting their potency. My favorite is Perla de la Baja, a glorious concoction of mescal, reposada tequilla, pineapple, lime, passion fruit, verbena, honey and Angostura bitters. Another? Yes, thank you. I’m not the one driving today.
In the café, Chef meets us at the service counter. He slaps a 15 lb. yellow tail tuna on the counter and whips out his Takeda Japanese knife. Off comes the head, which will turn up again in fish stock. With fastidious slicing and dicing, in minutes we’re presented with tuna crudo, which we’re invited to toss in lime-cured green papaya, watermelon, radish and avocado. Chef prepares tuna ceviche, curing it in citrus, cherry tomatoes and onion, with a side of burned tomato salsa. Fast food becomes luxurious eating. www.acrebaja.com
TODOS SANTOS
Artists have discovered this lovely village and have made it their own. Silversmiths, weavers, glass blowers, sculptors, and art galleries line the streets. Resistance is futile. I purchase silver earrings and two huge Mexican blankets.
A swing through the bar in Hotel California, made famous by The Eagles, includes a stroll through their gift shop crammed with unique designs in silver. I want to take it all home.
We stroll along, window-shopping to Patricia Mendoza Gallery, where tonight, she is hosting a dinner: Art to Table. The artist, and about two-dozen of Los Cabos’ most prominent citizens are in attendance. www.todossantos.cc www.visitloscabos.travel