DINE and Destinations

Two Sisters Vineyards

Sharing passion for Italian food, wine and culture

- www.travelport­land.com By Adam Waxman

SEATED ON THE PATIO AT TWO SISTERS VINEYARDS we could be forgiven for thinking we’ve been transporte­d to Tuscany. A congenial atmosphere of joie de vivre is infectious, and we are content to stay all day as though we’re meant to be nowhere else but right here. This is the quintessen­tial wine experience we seek: the romance, the architectu­re, the food and the wine.

The stage has been set as we open the menu of onsite restaurant, Kitchen76. What better way to get to know a wine, than by pairing it with such an inspired menu by Chef Christine Mast.

Artichokes stand like golden sunflowers, delicately crisped, splashed with lemon and sprinkled with Parmigiano­reggiano. Luscious textures that pair beautifull­y with the soft strawberry essence of the Sparkling Rosé, as well as the tropical grapefruit bouquet of the Sauvignon Blanc. Tenderly grilled and charred octopus, brined in red wine and spiked with chilli cuts perfectly, and the accompanyi­ng crunchy potatoes are addictive. What’s the secret? I ask the chef. “Training.” I’m told. The octopus and the Eleventh Post were simply made for each other. This is a sexy blend of Cab Sauv, Can Franc and Merlot with velvet tannins and intense perfume of blackberri­es, cassis and vanilla. These dishes, like their accompanyi­ng wines, stand alone, and yet they are so versatile, that their pairings only lift their flavour profiles to even more enjoyable heights.

Squid ink capellini is spun with spicy nduja sausage and white wine, and set between pristine clams. This is luxurious on the palate. Each ingredient enhances the whole. The Riesling, refreshing and elegant, with it’s notes of vanilla and lemon meringue, balances it all, and is also a spot-on pairing with the farfalle and braised lamb with ricotta, saffron raisins and fresh mint. This is a kitchen that takes chances and pushes the boundaries so that we can taste gorgeous flavour combinatio­ns that we would have otherwise not known.

“Meticulous vineyard practices including cropping for low yields has privileged me with exceptiona­l fruit.” Shares winemaker, Adam Pearce. “Such quality allows me to fully express what our cool climate region can produce while respecting each variety’s character. Our ultra-modern production facility, innovative fermentati­on equipment and a first-class French oak barrel program absolutely spoils me as winemaker.”

While we play mix and match between the wines and the dishes, there’s really no wrong answer, because these wines have such aplomb, and are so elegant and drinkable, and each recipe seems to make room for them.

A chorus of ingredient­s sing in our dessert of beignets with pistachio cream and orange syrup that we pair with a Riesling Icewine for delightful decadence. As we look out over the lush vineyard beyond the Ionic pillars, we see guests dining there too, lazing on lawn chairs with the sounds of Billie Holliday in the gentle breeze.

Two Sisters also offers programs like Explore the Grape, which includes private structured tastings of three wines with a wine consultant. The Stone Eagle Experience, which introduces the premier Stone Eagle wines, the art of both barrel aging and blending wines, and includes six wine tastings, as well as food pairings to highlight the interactio­n between food characteri­stics and grape varietals. The Twilight Experience offers a picturesqu­e evening stroll through the vineyard while enjoying wine, and concluding at the estate pond for an Italian-inspired picnic prepared by Kitchen76.

For the two sisters, Angela and Melissa, “Two Sisters is an extension of our family home and we do all that we can to be sure our guests feel comfortabl­e and welcome… for the little moments and the special occasions.” www.twosisters­vineyards.com

with strawberry molé at Canard or foie gras profiterol­es with caramel sauce at Le Pigeon, Chef Gabriel Rucker proves that if you’ve got it, flaunt it. Chefs love Portland for its bounty of fresh produce, worldclass wine region and proliferat­ion of craft breweries. They head to the Portland Farmers Market to get noticed, build their menus or build up for their own brick and mortar. “Have you been foraging lately?” I hear one market goer ask another. “Ya. I’m working on a new collabo right now actually. You should check it out.” It’s a hotbed of activity that encapsulat­es Portland’s DIY spirit.

Across town, the neighbourh­ood motto of the Central Eastside Industrial District is “Community not Competitio­n.” From day to night markets, chefs and muralists alike gravitate here. A tour with The Big Foody leads us through old warehouses revitalize­d with a cultural makeover. New

Deal Distillery’s vodka is made with Oregon wheat and charcoal filtered for purity of water with a true taste of terroir. This isn’t the typical clean spirit. It’s like a record with a bit of scratch in it. Cascara liqueur, made from the cherry, or the husk of the coffee bean, is a palate opener and conversati­on starter made in collaborat­ion with Water Avenue Coffee. Cupping coffee at Coava Coffee Roasters reveals more than how the coffee tastes at the end, but also the balance and summation of the sweetness, acidity and body in each mouthful. It seems that everything trickled down from Seattle to create this mecca of speciality coffee. There is such reverence to maintain quality that is unheard of in other cities. The proof is in the cup. Steven Smith Teamaker is the temple of quality tea in Portland. Seated at the counter, a menu of teas and flights are presented, including aromatic tea and scented chocolate pairings. Ecuador Balau chocolate is scented with Masala Chai; Madagascar Sambirano chocolate with Big Hibiscus; and Ecuadorian Peruvian chocolate with Peppermint. The results change the complexion of the chocolate and tea, infusing complex aromatics in the chocolates, and richer nuances in the teas. The mixing and matching is a fascinatin­g experiment that we indulge with every smooth sip.

There is a lot of knowledge about artisanal chocolate at a local level, with more chocolate makers in Portland than in San Francisco, LA and Chicago combined. The chocolate library at Cacao displays bars from all over the world including Singapore, Vietnam, Philippine­s, France and Canada. High-end chocolate bars like Shrimp and Bonito, Sour Dough and Olive Oil, and Foie Gras pique my curiousity. The selection of hot chocolate, rich and complex, makes my knees weak. Each square bar of

Cloud Forest chocolate is a frame of a personal experience, a haiku, an abstract image of a memory, like Miso Truffle, inspired by a walk in Forest Park. Goma, a grey chocolate with black sesame and goma dofu, and Bee Chocolate with local bee pollen are delicate and innovative without peer.

Whatever the passion, hobbies are a high priority in Portland. Whether for cannabis, wine, beer, coffee, tea or chocolate, if you want to geek-out on something, there is a community here that will get behind it and support you. It’s a laid back funky vibe with an aim to live well. As the song in Portlandia goes, “Portland is a city where young people go to retire.” For the rest, we can still visit…and dream.

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