Dreamscapes Travel & Lifestyle Magazine
CRUISING THE BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS
Pack lightly and set sail in the Caribbean.
Not a carry-on bag, mind you, but a handbag. One with the usual purse accoutrement—hairbrush, sunscreen, wallet, passport—and the clothing I’d need tossed into the empty corners. Because, as it turned out, all I really needed on-board Prodigious, the six-cabin catamaran that is the largest of The Moorings BVI charter fleet, was a book, bathing suit, sandals, cover up, shorts and T-shirts. Life could not be simpler.
I’ve been fascinated by sailing the Caribbean since I spent a high school summer doing grunt work at a marine biology station in the southeastern Caribbean Sea. We worked long days bobbing on a dive boat, snacking on white bread sandwiches and mapping the health of the coral reefs. I was hooked, and so a week on a crewed yacht seemed like the perfect “adult” fit for my marine obsession. This time around, just luxury—high thread count linens in private cabins, gourmet cuisine, on-board Wi-fi, air conditioning and an itinerary so flexible that we started each day on a whim.
A SAILOR’S DREAM
As it turns out, the British Virgin Islands (BVI) are the perfect fit for working with a highly changeable schedule. The close proximity of the islands lends itself to that flexibility in day-to-day planning. Sailors have long called the BVI, “the place on the way to everywhere,” a nod to the many sheltered harbours that were a welcome pause in the lengthy trade routes between Europe and South America. The first European to discover the islands was Christopher Columbus in 1493 on his second voyage to the New World.
Prodigious’ captain, Martin Street, has sailed the globe but when he arrived in BVI seven years ago he knew this was a place he wanted to anchor. “First and foremost, BVI is known as a sailing destination—there are dinghy docks everywhere, bars and restaurants catering to sailors. There are 60 islands in the Bvi—here we can jump between islands so easily. We have line-of-sight sailing— there’s much less open water sailing.”
Most charter boats depart from Tortola, an island of steep hills and the main transportation hub of the BVI. In the years of colonization—by the Spanish, Dutch and English—smuggling, piracy and privateering were rampant. Situated right on the treasure route, it was a magnet for the likes of Blackbeard, Calico Jack and Edward England. The islands were predominately a plantation economy until the Emancipation Act of August 1, 1834, after which the freed slaves lived off the fruits of the land and sea. In the early 1900s the tourist trade began to boom, especially the charter sailing industry, which became the backbone of the islands.
“There are two sides to the Caribbean,” explained Martin, who—together with chef Katie and steward Kay—cater to guests’ desires. “There’s the beach bar side and then there’s the golden beaches, palm trees, snorkelling. What people choose varies.”
If you’re like me, and all about the snorkelling and palms, a bathing suit and cover up is just about all you’ll need to pack. Prodigious is well outfitted with stand-up paddleboard, snorkelling gear, inflatables and a small dinghy to get from mooring to dock. Chef Katie works magic from a closetsize galley, creating fresh healthy meals with local ingredients like mahi mahi, lobster, pineapple and coconut. Within a day we’d set a dining rhythm: hors d’oeuvres and frosty tropical drinks on the fly bridge, meals alfresco at a table on the back of the boat. More drinks post-dinner while flopped in beanbag chairs on the webbed bow.
OUR PERFECT ITINERARY
Our plan was to do a semi-circle around Tortola, sailing to Jost Van Dyke first, then south to Norman Island (reputed to be the inspiration for Treasure Island) and then on to Virgin Gorda. The cluster of islands is the top of mountains and volcanoes poking out above navy and turquoise waters.
They say that Jost Van Dyke was named after Dutch privateer Joost Van Dyke. The hilly island is known for its bar scene and beach parties—a hit with the sailing crowd—but, with a year-round population of about 297, there are still more goats than people. Before the arrival of motorized craft, the villages here were renowned for building sailing vessels.
We dropped anchor at Great Harbour, a sheltered bay at the base of 300-metre peaks, and revved up the dinghy to head for White Bay with its beautiful stretch of sand beach. The bay is synonymous with the Soggy Dollar bar, so named for the soggy state of the dollar bills used to pay for drinks after swimming ashore from an anchored craft. One does not go to the Soggy Dollar without ordering a Painkiller, a mix of crushed ice, dark rum, cream of coconut, pineapple and orange juice. The fastest way to banish thoughts of Canadian ice and snow is to sit under a coconut palm, Painkiller in hand (although the yacht’s steward Kay whips up her own version that gives anything on land a run for its money).
Next morning, just a two-hour cruise away, we anchored at Norman Island, slipped on flippers and masks and snorkelled The Caves. Dinner outside gave us a perfect line on the sunset, where we overnighted in The Bight, a well-sheltered, deep harbour. In between snorkelling and sunset there was a little reading, some sunning, more swimming, a hike to overlooks above Pirates Bight and the occasional nap. Bedtime was the gentlest of rocking; a bassinet on the waves.
By breakfast the next morning Martin had us well underway to our final stop, The Baths National Park on Virgin Gorda. The shoreline park is known for its unique jumble of enormous granite boulders formed when volcanic lava was thrown sky high during an eruption millions of years ago.
We dropped anchor, hopped into the clear waters and swam to shore. There’s a pathway winding and looping through the pile of boulders, with shallow grottos for quick dips along the way and breathtaking views mixing the granite grey with the deep blue and aquamarine of the sea.
Another day of swim-dry-repeat. And another day when I didn’t miss my clothes closet back home.
Experience NL, Newfoundland and Labrador’s flagship boutique travel agency, is transforming how visitors experience Canada’s magnificent eastern province. Featuring compelling, personally crafted itineraries that go beyond routine, the tour company puts travel back in the hands of the traveller. By connecting guests to the essence of Newfoundland, tour participants blend in and experience what life is truly like on “the Rock.” Stay and relax in locally owned properties, dine on fresh, authentic cuisine, enjoy the company of knowledgeable, local guides and attend community festivals and events filled with music and cheer. experiencenl.com
Sip a sundowner on the banks of the Zambezi River or embark on a 4x4 journey in search of the black rhino. It’s all part of Trafalgar’s 10 new trips to sub-saharan Africa, including South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Kenya and Tanzania. Whether you choose to explore a single country or visit several, trips are personalized for four to 15 guests and packed with first-hand knowledge, heritage, stories and secrets for an in-depth cultural experience. Save 10 per cent on selected Trafalgar trips when paid in full by January 17, 2019. trafalgar.com
Just 20 minutes from Louisville and three hours from Nashville, Oldham County promises visitors a perfectly safe, authentically Kentucky experience. Known for its natural beauty, Oldham County has become the premier overnight destination for those who want to relax and regroup after a week of live country music and rowdy crowds. Conveniently located on Interstate 71 at Exits 14–22, Oldham is home to Kentucky craft bourbon, horse farm tours and bed and breakfasts, and trains that regularly run through the town’s historic Main Street. Just far enough from the city to breathe easy, yet close enough to enjoy the Kentucky Derby Museum and Churchill Downs, Oldham County is your perfect Kentucky stay on your way home. Kyfarmstay.com
Tokyo can be expensive for Canadian travellers, so why not take advantage of the city’s free bus services? The Metro Link Nihonbashi is a major free bus line that operates between 10 a.m. and 8 p.m. between Tokyo Station (Yaesu Exit) and popular attractions such as the Tokyo Stock Exchange and Mitsukoshi, Japan’s oldest department store. Another line, the adorable Panda Bus, runs around the Asakusa area from 10 a.m. to 5:15 p.m. between the famous Senso-ji temple and Tokyo Skytree, the tallest structure in Japan. And, if you’re visiting Tokyo between now and January 31, 2019, check out the “Metro and Grutto” pass 2018, which comes with two 24-hour unlimited ride Tokyo Metro tickets and free or discounted admission to 86 museums in Tokyo and six attractions in Kanagawa, Chiba and Saitama Prefectures. canada-tokyo.ca
The Anguilla–st. Maarten Ferry Terminal has reopened for business after being heavily damaged a year ago during Hurricane Irma. Tucked away in the northern Caribbean, the island of Anguilla is ringed with 33 beaches, considered by many to be among the most beautiful in the world. It is easily accessed from Puerto Rico and St. Maarten. (Passengers are reminded of the US$5 levy charged on departure from Anguilla’s Blowing Point Ferry Terminal.) ivisitanguilla.com
Although it’s been a long, hot summer this year, perhaps you’re not quite ready to let it go just yet. South Carolina’s gorgeous Myrtle Beach area celebrates “60 More Days of Summer” during the months of September and October with exclusive fall deals, events and plenty of special activities. Undeniable affordability combined with summer-like temperatures, warm ocean waters and a more peaceful ambiance add to Myrtle Beach’s appeal. Bring the family for oceanside fun or plan a romantic getaway. visitmyrtlebeach.com
Book your escape to the Caribbean islands of St. Vincent and The Grenadines this fall and winter. The Grenadines stretch 72 kilometres south from St. Vincent and include eight inhabited islands as well as the Tobago Cays (home of the national marine park and renowned for some of the best sailing waters in the world). Sunwing Airlines (sunwing.ca) offers weekly non-stop service from Toronto to St. Vincent during the summer months while Air Canada (aircanada.com) operates non-stop service year-round between Toronto and St. Vincent. Discoversvg.com
From festivals and vibrant foliage to Halloween and Veterans Day activities, Washington, DC, is full of free things to do in the fall. National monuments and memorials, including the Jefferson Memorial, are stunning by moonlight. The National Gallery of Art hosts free livemusic concerts and fall is the most beautiful time to visit the National Arboretum, an oasis in Northeast DC. From Thursday through Sunday admire the (free!) view from the clock tower of the Old Post Office, now known as the Trump International Hotel. Fitness and movie buffs should check out the 75 super-steep stone stairs at the corner of 36th and Prospect in Georgetown, where Father Karras tumbled to his demise in the Exorcist. washington.org
Travel closer to home next year with one of Insight Vacations’ 15 escorted journeys through Canada and the U.S., featuring North America’s most majestic landscapes, scenic destinations, and culturally diverse places. Join a lobster fisherman aboard his boat in Shediac Bay, taste wine at Sonoma’s Madrone Family vineyards or meet the Alaskan champion dog team of high-speed huskies. Stay in national parks, including the Grand Canyon lodges and Zion National Park Lodge. Dine on authentic farm-to-table cuisine at restaurants and local homes. Insight has added extra departure dates for popular journeys such as New England’s Fall Foliage and Jewels of Alaska. Travellers wishing to explore North America can save 10 per cent by paying in full before January 17, 2019. insightvacations.com
Travel with Victoria-based Outer Shores Expeditions to explore the rich natural and cultural history of British Columbia aboard the schooner Passing Cloud. With room for just six passengers, spaces are filling up quickly for 2019. Spring adventures include a five-day tour of Pacific Rim National Park, where you will stand among ancient rainforests of giant western red cedar and Sitka spruce, watch bears forage for food on beaches and witness killer whales hunt for fish and seals. Shore excursions include visits to ancient village sites of the native people who have lived in this region for thousands of years. outershores.ca
The Hopper, San Diego’s newest tourist attraction and transportation service, offers visitors and locals a new way to explore six of the city’s iconic neighbourhoods: Old Town, Embarcadero, Seaport Village, Gaslamp Quarter, Balboa Park and Little Italy. Design your own day to create unique experiences while gaining anecdotal and historical facts about the city. The double-decker buses stop at each location every 30 minutes, so you can hop on and off wherever you wish. On-board amenities include concessions, table-style seating, Wi-fi service, an on-board restroom and outlets in a comfortable, climate-controlled environment. ridethehopperbus.com
Asurvey by the Intercontinental Hotels Group reveals that six in 10 Canadians have or plan to make a bucket list of national sites. Niagara Falls topped many lists, along with historical spots such as the Diefenbunker near Ottawa, built to protect Canadian politicians in the event of nuclear war. The Edgewalk atop Toronto’s CN Tower was a popular choice, along with a walk across the Capilano Suspension Bridge in Vancouver. Another BC favourite was the Richmond Olympic Oval, built for the 2010 Winter Games. This interactive museum tests your skills and reflexes in sports ranging from ski-jumping and bobsleigh to Formula One racing. Check out all 25 bucket-list spots. multivu.com/players/english/8324451-ihg-great-canadian-bucket-list
Blessed by its vast biodiversity in the heart of Central America, Honduras and adventure go hand in hand. Dive with whale sharks in the morning and hike the rainforest among exotic birds and monkeys in the afternoon. La Campa Canyon features the highest and longest zip line in Central America. Ride through the canyon, ending up above the small town of La Campa. Head northwest to Santa Rosa de Copán, where the canopy tour de Los Sapos offers a bird’s-eye view of the Mayan ruins of Copán, considered the Athens of the Mayan world. Divers will want to head to the Bay Islands of Roatán, Útila and Guanaja, home to the largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere. honduras.com/tourism
For a refreshing change from the Laurentians’ traditional rustic accommodation, check out the Miniloft Village at Bel Air Tremblant. Ninety modern “mini-lofts” scattered over 219 hectares provide a secluded holiday retreat in modern units with stunning views of nature. The resort is located eight minutes from Québec’s Mount Tremblant, considered the top ski resort in eastern North America. Bel Air is the first development to combine residential homes and vacation-rental lodging within one community. It offers resort-style amenities to both residents and guests as well as year-round recreational activities. belairtremblant.com