Edmonton Journal

Pot or pearl, beer or steak

Barley is a Prairie staple and one of Alberta’s most versatile grains

- MARI SASANO

When you look out at a typical farmer’s field in Alberta, you might assume it’s wheat. But chances are, you could be looking at barley.

“Quite a lot of barley is grown in Alberta,” says Linda Whitworth, home economist and marketing and events manager at the Alberta Barley Commission. “There are 1,700 barley producers growing 2.4 tonnes per year.”

Doug Mcbain is one of those farmers. His family has been growing barley near Cremona for 107 years, for good reason.

“Well, it fits well with our climate and soil conditions,” Mcbain says.

“We have a relatively short growing season, a relatively cool climate, and a high altitude. (Barley) doesn’t like it too hot or too wet,” he explains.

Mcbain grows all three kinds of barley: feed barley, malt barley, and hull-less.

“The hull-less is mostly for human consumptio­n, like in soup. Feed barley is for cattle, chickens, hogs. It’s good because of the balance of protein, starch and micronutri­ents.”

He’s proud of the quality of barley that can be produced in Alberta.

“The barley grown in Canada is used all over the world for beer. We can compete with anybody in the world. Big Rock has gone a long way in promoting that — they have those big beer can bale tarps. The objective is to identify the farms growing the barley they use for their beer.” In other words, when it comes to barley: “It’s in your beer and in your steak.”

In our kitchens, barley is an unsung hero that Whitworth would like to bring out of the pantry and into our pots.

“It’s great as a carbohydra­te source — barley risotto is absolutely delicious, or flaked barley in cereals. It’s wonderful in soups or stews. You can’t go wrong with beef barley soup; it’s a real comfort food.”

Although convention­al barley usually takes some time to prepare, a quick-cooking barley is available from Progressiv­e Foods, an Edmonton company that distribute­s its product through Earth’s General Store and Planet Organic in Edmonton, Big Bend Market in Red Deer, Community Natural Foods in Calgary, and Nutter’s Bulk and Natural Foods throughout Alberta (find a complete list at progressiv­efoods.ca).

Barley is also processed into flour, which has di erent properties than wheat flour.

“You can use barley flour in baking. We have recipes on our website for cookies and chocolate cake. It’s a little more whole grain. For people with a wheat intoleranc­e, it can be a good substitute. It does have gluten in it, so it’s not appropriat­e for celiacs,” Whitworth says.

There isn’t a huge market for “eating” barley, but it’s growing. There is one mill in Alberta producing barley flour and the pot and pearl barley that we’re used to seeing in soup.

But there could be a growth in barley’s popularity: An official health claim will be announced by Agricultur­e Canada in the next few weeks that shows some strong health benefits to barley.

Thava Vasanthan, a professor of grain science and technology, and Feral Temelli, a professor of food process engineerin­g, are University of Alberta scientists who have been studying beta-glucan, a fibre component in barley.

Viscofiber is the name of the concentrat­ed product they have developed, but beta-glucan is also present in the barley we cook at home.

“Beta-glucan is a fibre component which has been shown to reduce cholestero­l and regulate blood glucose. It’s also present in oats,” Temelli says. “In barley in general, the key component is fibre, but barley also contains vitamin E, which has antioxidan­t activities.”

Her colleague Dr. Vasanthan also notes that beta-glucan’s water-binding property — it’s what thickens oatmeal — has implicatio­ns for diabetics, as well.

“When you consume starch and beta-glucan in food, the digestive process is highly slowed down because of the increased thickness of the digesta.

“The enzymes can’t cut the starch as quickly, and so sugar is absorbed more slowly,” he says.

Temelli adds that the thickening quality also promotes a feeling of fullness, which is useful in weight management.

“There have been studies where people have been asked to record their level of hunger, satiety and snacking habits after beta-glucan intake, and it has been shown to extend the feeling of fullness and reduce the intake of fatty, starchy foods. So companies have been using our product for weight loss.”

It also appears that the health benefits apply to animals that consume barley in feed, leading to lower veterinary costs.

In the end, though, it’s the warm, hearty comfort of a barley-based food that’s so satisfying. Whitworth believes that barley will find its way onto our tables, simply because it’s so delicious.

Barley Casserole

Linda Whitworth, of the Alberta Barley Commission, says this recipe is a hit at family get-togethers, thanks to its creamy texture, delicious taste and ease of cooking. 2 tbsp (25 ml) canola oil 1 medium onion, chopped 3/4 lb (350 g) fresh mushrooms, sliced

1 1/2 cups (375 ml) pot or pearl barley

3 cups (750 ml) beef broth or bouillon, divided

salt and pepper to taste

In a large skillet, heat oil and sauté onions until transparen­t, about 5 minutes. Add mushrooms and continue cooking for about 5 minutes.

Add barley and sauté until lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Remove barley mixture to a 1-1/2-quart (1.5 L) casserole dish. Add 2 cups of broth and seasonings. Cover.

Place casserole in a 350°F (180°C) oven for 1 hour, add remaining broth, as necessary, and cook an additional 30 minutes.

Serves 6 to 8.

 ?? LEAH HENNEL, CALGARY HERALD,
POSTMEDIA NEWS, FILE ?? Below, barley waits to be harvested near Hussar, Alta.
LEAH HENNEL, CALGARY HERALD, POSTMEDIA NEWS, FILE Below, barley waits to be harvested near Hussar, Alta.
 ?? SUPPLIED ?? Easy-to-make, delicious Barley Casserole has a creamy texture.
SUPPLIED Easy-to-make, delicious Barley Casserole has a creamy texture.
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