Molasses in February
Famously slow and sticky syrup a key ingredient in many old-fashioned baked goods
Oh, molasses! What is it about you that charms me so? I didn’t realize how deep my molasses love was until I began remembering all of the joy it has given me. I know I go on about my childhood and what I loved and how my tastes were formed, but this is different and somehow deeper. My mother’s Fannie Farmer Cook
book was one I read avidly. Fannie was from Boston, and many of the recipes that I found the most interesting contained molasses. (A side note here: Molasses travelled up the East Coast from the British West Indies, a lot of it landing in Boston to be made into rum.) Baked Beans, Steamed Browned Bread, Indian Pudding, Pulled Molasses Taffy and Gingerbread captivated me.
Once a year, my mother would make the pulled taffy. How I loved pulling and twisting the warm mound of molasses caramel into golden strands. There was nothing better than a chewy mouthful of the freshly-made taffy.
I also adored the Crosse & Blackwell brown bread that came in a can, especially the date and nut one, spread thickly with butter. I loved baked beans, and Indian Pudding was simple and delicious. All of these featured molasses.
The simplest dish was the one my grandmother would give me; squares of buttered bread and a small dish of molasses to dip them into. She would talk about the iron and other minerals it contained. That’s how I got hooked on the slightly bitter, vaguely metallic and deep, rich flavour.
Being from Nova Scotia, grandmother was no slouch when it came to molasses and knew all about the above dishes, but also Rappie Pie (grated potatoes baked with salt pork and served with molasses), buckwheat cakes with molasses, and big, soft molasses cookies.
What captivated me then, and more so now, was the simplicity of the other ingredients that blended seamlessly with the molasses. If another liquid sweetener such as honey or maple syrup was used, these dishes would be weak and ordinary. Only molasses has the character to transform the plain into something greater. Just the slightest whiff of it reminds me of home.
Field notes: When sugar is refined from sugar cane, the syrup that remains from the process is molasses. Depending on what part of the refining process it comes from determines the grade and whether it’s light, dark or blackstrap.
Light molasses is less processed and from the first refining of the cane syrup. It’s mild in flavour and lighter in colour. Dark molasses is from the second refining and it’s not as sweet as light molasses.
Blackstrap molasses is from the third refining process. It’s the darkest and most bitter in flavour. It’s also the highest in iron.
Sulphur is used in the refining process when immature sugar cane is processed.
New England-style brown bread
◗◗ ◗◗ ◗◗ 1/2 cup (125 ml) whole wheat flour 1/2 cup (125 ml) rye flour 1/2 cup (125 ml) stone-ground corn meal 3/4 teaspoon (4 ml) sea salt 1 teaspoon (5 ml) baking soda 1 cup (250 ml) buttermilk, plain yogurt or sour milk, below
1/3 cup (80 ml) molasses ◗◗ ◗◗ ◗◗
◗◗
Liberally butter two 13-fluid-ounce (369 ml) washed tin cans. Using 14-, 15- or 16-ounce cans is fine too.
Whisk the dry ingredients together. Beat the molasses and buttermilk together. Stir into the dry mixture just to combine. Do not over-mix.
Pour the batter evenly into the cans. Tap the cans gently to remove any air bubbles. Cut squares of parchment paper, large enough for a 2-inch (5-cm) overhang and place it on top of the can.
Cut a larger piece of aluminum foil and wrap it over parchment, smoothing it down around the sides of the can. Wrap tightly with a rubber band or hair tie.
Place the cans upright in the bottom of pot large enough to hold them comfortably. Fill the pot with water to come about halfway up the can. Cover the pot with a lid and bring to a boil. Boil on high for 30 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and continue to simmer for 1 to 1-1/2 hours.
To test, remove a can from the pot and remove the parchment and aluminum foil. Insert a tester in to the middle of the bread. If it comes out clean it’s ready. Remove from the cans and eat warm, or at room temperature.
Note: To sour milk, mix 1 teaspoon (5 ml) vinegar with 1 cup (250 ml) milk.
To change this up, you can add 3/4 teaspoon (4 ml) cinnamon and 1/2 cup (125 ml) raisins or 1/2 cup (125 ml) chopped dates and 1/2 cup (125 ml) coarsely chopped walnuts after the batter is mixed.
Makes 6 servings.
Pulled molasses taffy
This doesn’t last long as taffy. Depending on the environment, it can turn a fudgy instead of chewy candy, so there’s your excuse to eat it quickly.
1 1/4 cups (310 ml) packed brown sugar 1/3 cup (80 ml) fancy molasses 1/4 cup (60 ml) water 2 tablespoons (30 ml) vinegar 2 teaspoons (10 ml) butter 1/4 teaspoon (1 ml) baking soda
Cut 30 to 40 three-inch (7.5-cm) squares of waxed paper or parchment paper
In a deep, heavy pot bring the sugar, molasses, water, vinegar and butter to boil, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, without stirring, for about 8 minutes or until candy thermometer registers the softcrack stage of 270 F (132 C), or 1/2 teaspoon (2 ml) syrup dropped into cold water separates into hard but pliable threads. Remove from heat.
Quickly dissolve baking soda in 1 teaspoon (5 ml) warm water and stir into the molasses mixture. Pour onto a buttered, rimmed baking sheet. Let cool on a rack for 5 minutes.
With a metal spatula, fold the edges of the mixture toward the centre. Repeat until an indentation remains after the taffy is poked with a finger and the mixture is cool enough to handle.
With buttered hands, gather taffy into ball. Pull into rope and fold in half. Twist the strands together. Continue pulling, folding and twisting until glossy and lightly streaked throughout, about 5 minutes. Pull and twist taffy evenly into 1/2-inch (1-cm) thick rope. Place on a work surface.
With scissors dipped into cold water, cut into 1-inch-long (2.5-cm) pieces, working quickly while still soft. Wrap each piece in the parchment or waxed paper.
Makes approximately 30 pieces
Boston-style baked beans
This classic dish is traditionally served with the New England-style Brown Bread.
1 pound (454 g) dried navy beans, soaked overnight in cold water
1/3 cup (80 ml) firmly packed brown sugar 1/4 cup (60 ml) molasses 1 tablespoon (15 ml) dried mustard 1 teaspoon (5 ml) sea salt 6 small onions, peeled 3 whole cloves 1 pound (454 g) salt pork
Drain the beans, discarding the soaking liquid, and place them in a large pot. Cover the beans with water and bring to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and skim off any scum that has risen to the surface. Drain the beans, reserving the cooking water. Set the cooking liquid aside and transfer the beans to a heavy casserole or pot. Preheat the oven to 275 F.
Mix the brown sugar, molasses, mustard powder and salt with about 1 cup of the cooking liquid and pour over the beans, stirring to mix. Cut the salt pork into 2-inch (5-cm) cubes and add to the beans. Poke the cloves into 3 of the onions and add them along with the 3 other onions to the beans. Add enough of the reserved cooking liquid to cover the beans and set the remaining liquid aside.
Cover the beans and cook for 4 hours, checking from time to time to make sure they are always covered with liquid, and adding more of the reserved cooking liquid as necessary.
After 4 hours the beans should be just tender, but the cooking time can vary depending on the age of the beans. Uncover the pan and continue to cook them for another hour to thicken the sauce and colour the salt pork pieces.
Makes 6 servings.
Pumpernickel bread
Really simple and very delicious. A friend of mind loves slices of it spread with herbed Boursin cheese.
With a respectful nod to Pam, who passed this recipe on to me more than 20 years ago. 3 cups (750 g) Red River Cereal 1 cup (250 ml) whole wheat flour 1/2 cup (125 ml) molasses 3 cups (750 ml) water 1 teaspoon (5 ml) sea salt 2 teaspoons (10 ml) baking soda
Line a 9 x 5-inch (23 x 2 cm) loaf pan with parchment paper and brush it with vegetable oil. Combine all of the ingredients and beat until well combined. Pour into the prepared pan and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let sit, unrefrigerated, overnight.
Preheat the oven to 325 F (160 C). Place the bread in the oven and bake for 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 hours until the bread feels firm and a tester comes out clean when inserted into the middle of the loaf. Remove to a cooling rack and let cool for 20 minutes. Remove from the pan and let cool completely. Strip off the parchment paper, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight before slicing. Slice with a sharp, serrated knife, wiping the blade with a hot, damp cloth after each slice.
Keeps for one week, refrigerated.