Whale of a time in B.C.
The waters off Victoria’s coast are a playground for orcas and tourists.
Victoria is one of Canada’s best places for spotting whales, but first we had to learn how to tell the difference among orcas, floating logs, seals, porpoises and our fevered imaginations.
There are numerous companies that can take you out for a few hours to see the many species of whales that frequent the waters around the British Columbia capital. Our choice was Prince of Whales, an outfit with a good reputation that has been taking tourists out to spot cetaceans for years.
We were the first boat out of scenic Victoria harbour that morning. The sky was blue and the sea was calm. Everyone aboard was excited by the possibility of spotting whales, especially the powerful orcas, the black and white killer whales that are symbolic of British Columbia.
We were all wrapped up in bulky, orange survival suits in case someone was dumped into the frigid water. It also helps keep you warm as it can get cold out on the water, especially when the open boat is motoring along at high speed. They also provide gloves and tuques to keep you warm.
Our affable guide explained that he had seen at least two whales offshore from his house that morning and knew where they would be. He promised we’d have no difficulty finding them. He piloted our boat with confidence to the spot where he thought they would be. We dodged fog banks that drifted along the water, threatening to engulf us in their cool mist.
Passengers would call out that they saw something, hoping that it was a sign of a whale.
No, sorry, that’s just the whitecap on a wave, said our skipper. What about that white object, someone asked. No, that’s a log, he replied.
I see something, someone shouted. Indeed they did — a sea lion.
Our guide eventually came to the spot where he thought he had spotted the whales earlier that day, but found nothing. He changed direction a few times, but was still having no success. He called his wife on his mobile phone asking for her help. She said she saw the orcas plain as day in her binoculars, but we saw nothing.
Someone spotted something. Wait, that’s a porpoise. Finally, after much straining to spot something, one of the passengers called out, pointing to the unmistakable sight of an orca coming to the surface, it’s towering dorsal fin cutting through the waves and the plume of water spouting out of its blowhole.
Our guide swung the boat around and brought us closer. There was not just one orca there, but at least five. He recognized two of them as being resident whales. He confirmed their identities from his catalogue of orcas that had been identified by the unique white markings on their backs. One was a mother and the other was her son. The others were likely transient whales who were just passing through.
It was exciting to get that close to such massive animals. For several minutes we’d shadow the pod as the whales came up for air, admiring them and trying our best to photograph them as they rose in and out of the water.
Eventually, they’d dive down deep to hunt and we’d lose track of them.
A short while later, the group would re-emerge some distance from us and our boat would head out in their direction and we would follow them and continue shadowing them.
Our guide was on the radio with other tourist boats to report the pod, and it wasn’t long before other craft were visible on the horizon. That was the signal for us to depart. It was better to have fewer vessels in the vicinity of the whales.
Our trip continued past Race Rocks lighthouse, perched upon an island ringed with jagged rocks. It was certainly a pretty sight on the calm, sunny day we were enjoying, but was doubtless a place that frightened early mariners during stormy weather.
The rocks are actually a protected marine area and we got to enjoy the sight of seals and sea lions sunning themselves.
A dominant male sea lion lay upon the highest, most desirable rock when, as if on cue for the tourists, another sea lion hauled his bulk up to the peak to bellow at the king and challenge him for the coveted spot. After some sumo-style bumping, the challenger pushed the champion from the top and claimed the prize.
Show over, we headed back in the direction of Victoria at high speed. Along the way, we spotted a dark, whale-like shape in the distance. It seemed much too big to be a whale.
As we got closer, it was soon apparent that it was no whale, but, in fact, a submarine. The Royal Canadian Navy has a base nearby and one of its few subs was cruising around. Blue whales may be endangered, but spotting Canadian subs might even be rarer.
It wasn’t long before we found our way back to harbour, admiring the sight of the ivy-covered buildings that line Victoria’s waterside as we approached and the colourful, fluttering banners from the many sailboats docked there.
Our tour was only three hours, and we had not only seen the whales we came to see but also a whole lot more.