Cruising the Emerald Isle
More around-the-U.K. cruises are including friendly, historic Dublin
DUBLIN — “I always light a candle at night and put it in the window so those who have emigrated, especially the young, will find their way home.”
Those words by Mary Robinson, the first female president of the Republic of Ireland, came in conversation with well-known Canadian broadcaster Vicki Gabereau in the ’90s.
While this column is about cruising, it’s also about Ireland. Specifically, about Dublin. More around-theUnited Kingdom cruises are including Dublin, and now Cork and Belfast are welcoming more ships.
Most cruises stopping in Ireland originate in Southampton, Copenhagen and Amsterdam on lines such as Princess, Celebrity and Holland America — and I guarantee you’ll find much “craic” here (that’s Irish for a good time).
On my fourth visit here last week, I spent a few days in Dublin and Bray, between cruises. Dubliners — indeed all Irish people — are among the friendliest in the world but, like most rapidly growing cities, the city has lost a bit of its charm
Like to walk? This is the city.
Last week, I revisited Trinity College and the Book of Kells, followed by a short walk to Grafton Street, which is a great place for walking and shopping. It ends in Dublin’s city centre oasis, St. Stephen’s Green, where many benches offer a perfect spot to sit and admire this beautiful park.
Many of Ireland’s treasures are close by: Little Museum, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and the National Gallery of Ireland. I skipped the (pricey) Temple Bar area, the entertainment district where you can find music and, yes, Guinness.
The hop-on, hop-off buses are the best way to cover a lot of territory, and the driver-guides are most entertaining.
I took the bus to the Guinness Storehouse for a look at how Ireland produces what I suppose is the country’s “national drink.” Jameson, the whiskey maker, also offers tours.
If you’re still standing, there’s a couple of pubs where great writers used to hang out. Davy Byrnes on Duke Street was a favourite haunt of James Joyce. Ireland’s most famous combination writer/drinker, Brendan Behan, who described himself as “a drinker with a writing problem,” held court at McDaids on Harry Street.
The best hop-on, hop-off bus I found was the Dublin Bus Tour. A daily ticket is 19 euros and includes Pat Liddy’s walking tour which covers many of the places I have mentioned.
Catch bus No. 53 for public transportation from the port to Dublin. Taxis are plentiful and many cruise lines provide buses to the city centre.
Need help? Dublin’s tourist office is on College Green, just outside Trinity College.
Want to escape to the seaside north or south of Dublin? Use the (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) DART train. Check the schedule but trains are frequent.
The biggest problem with Dublin is trying to fit in all the things there are to do. A little culture, a little drink and good Irish food makes for one fine day in port.
Next week I’ll report from the all new Scenic Jasper sailing out of Budapest.
Phil’s Pick of the Week
As part of the Princess promotion to celebrate 50 years in the business, here is a round-trip cruise on the Royal Princess from Southampton that includes Dublin.
Departs: June 2
Duration: 12 days
Ports: Guernsey (England), Cork (Cobh, for Blarney Castle), Dublin, Liverpool, Belfast, Glasgow, Inverness/ Loch Ness, Edinburgh, Paris (Le Havre)
Starting price: $1,426.90 US per person based on double occupancy Princesscruises.com