Beef is the star at Stampede
Calgary’s big party dishes up Alberta’s best
Calgary — Across more than a hundred years of history, the Calgary Stampede’s reputation is intertwined with bulls, broncos and beef.
That is no different today than a century ago, as this year the internationally recognized event expects to dish up tens of thousands of pounds of beef, all from cattle raised in the rolling foothills and flatlands that sweep across Alberta.
“Stampede and beef go hand in hand,” says Calgary Stampede executive chef Derek Dale. “A lot of people who did start Stampede are ranchers, so they had that in their back pockets.”
The so-called Big Four — Patrick Burns, A.E. Cross, George Lane and Archibald McLean — who founded the Stampede were all involved in the cattle industry. In addition, Lane and McLean were ranchers, while Burns owned a meat-packing business.
Although most of the stories of the food served up in those early days have been lost over the years owing to the fact most was dished up by independent concessions or midway operators, beef was officially served up to patrons in 1925. That year, in the infield that is now encircled with luxury suites and the recently renovated grandstand, Stampede officials built a massive fire and barbecued seven steer, turning all that beef into sandwiches for 12,000 guests who snapped up every morsel in a half-hour. In the intervening years, the appetite for beef hasn’t changed, even as the Stampede has grown from its more humble beginnings to the massive operation it is today. It runs July 3-12 this year.
Mini doughnuts and the odd concoctions created for shock value — like last year’s scorpion pizza or the various iterations of unusual deepfried foods and food served on sticks — are draws on the midway, but generally beef is front of mind for those on the grounds. Today, the Calgary Stampede serves up to 150,000 pounds of Alberta beef year-round, about half of that around the 10-day main event alone.
“We use a little bit of it,” Dale jokes.
In the 28 years he has worked for the Stampede, Alberta beef has been on the menu, Dale says. When he first took the position, it was made clear to the chef that buying anything other than beef raised in the province was not an option.
“Cost is not a concern. We want our guests to enjoy the best possible beef.”
It fits neatly with the Stampede’s ethos of supporting local through its Grown Right. Here program, which focuses on using area producers. More than that, though, Dale says they choose it because it is “the best beef around.”
“It is by far the best beef you can buy. Our producers and suppliers are so passionate about the products they sell. Our clientele expect the best. When you come to Calgary or Alberta, you come here to eat beef.”
Almost all of it served by the Stampede is AAA Alberta beef, though there is some certified Angus beef served as well. Anything from beef on a bun to the tenderloins served in premium seating comes from locally raised beef.
“When you come to Calgary or Alberta, you come here to eat beef.” Derek Dale, executive chef, Calgary Stampede
Steaks, striploins and prime rib are among the cuts chefs cook up for those eating at Ranahan’s, Lazy S, 30 X Saloon, and the infield and Agrium suites. New last year was the addition of spinals — a cut also known as the prime rib cap — which was carved up in infield suites. Almost like a flank steak in its thinness, the appeal is the consistency, which Dale says is similar to wagyu, a Japanese beef. “There’s so much marbling in it; it just melts in your mouth.”
The spinals and the prime rib-cut steaks proved so popular, they are returning to the menu again this year.
Striploins are served up in the tents and catering operations, while beef on a bun is offered in numerous locations around the grounds.
(Midway operators are independent and the Stampede does not have control over where they get their beef from.)
Even outside of the 10-day celebration in July, guests are looking for beef when attending events on the Stampede grounds with beef far outweighing demands for pork and chicken.
“Beef is in the 90th percentile of what they want when they come down here, from weddings to corporate functions,” says Dale.
Dale suspects that partly may be due to people not eating as much of it at home and choosing to splurge when they come down to the grounds. Although beef prices continue to rise, the Stampede buys enough that they can minimize costs, Dale says.
“When they come down here, they want a nice big steak,” he says.