Busy Blue Plate Diner warm, family-friendly
Despite its reputation for attracting visiting stars — Justin Bieber at the apex of his popularity, Selena Gomez on his arm — fame is not a prerequisite for a seat at the Blue Plate Diner. Not that an entourage or two can’t be accommodated.
Stacks of high chairs greet us as we walk from the 104th Street market into the buzzing Warehouse District eatery. Much like the street, it’s a beehive of happy Saturday-morning activity, though there’s no lineup when we stop in. Service is warm, even if it is too cold to dine on the patio.
The crowd ebbs and flows. Kids are welcome, though without prompting, co-owner John Williams observes that there were fewer crying infants this morning than usual.
The Blue Plate Diner is refreshingly un Bieberlike in other ways, too: There’s no observable crooning or dancing. We picked from a dozen or so brunch options representing breakfast, light gourmet and southwestern cuisine, in addition to a special butternut squash omelette.
The Gonzo ($17) is a massive heap of breakfast staples for indecisive breakfast lovers. In addition to that curious slice of grilled grapefruit, you get three eggs and slices of bacon, four sausages and slivers of toast, plus many, many potatoes.
It’s enough food for two. The spuds are crisp yet soft, the sausages reminiscent of Stampede. The jam is homemade. There’s a sheen of oil on the bacon — that’s bacon for you — though it’s cut nicely by that grapefruit.
The Eggs Beneduckt is much finer fare. At $18, it’s a somewhat pricey experiment on the Benedictine staple, poached eggs sitting on crumbled morsels of duck confit and an English muffin. I’m not one for barbecue sauce — too sweet and faux-smoky for my liking — but in this dish, it’s the right touch.
A regular benny is also available, and for vegetarians, a Caprese option with bocconcini and tomato. Southwestern fare includes a breakfast burrito and vegetarian enchilada. Gluten-averse diners will be pleased with gluten-free toast, and celiac-friendly bacon, among the many sides.
Cappuccino isn’t on par with the nearby Credo, but at $3.50, it’s better than the local bucket of stars and brewed with locally roasted Iconoclast beans. Faced with an unspectacular choice of teas, my partner opted for hot chocolate, made with cocoa, milk and sugar. It was creamy, not too sweet, and served in a Las Vegas dad mug. If you’re not up for bottomless joe, there are ample choices from the beer, wine and cocktail menus.
We were too stuffed to tackle the southwestern options, opting instead for an ice cream sandwich to finish the meal. The ice cream is from local Italian ice cream maker Pinocchio. The in-house sugar cookies were delicious, orangeinfused with an unusual texture created by cornmeal. The cookies are inspired by an Italian recipe, Williams says, though the variety rotates every few days.
The Blue Plate decor is warm and homey, a chatty crowd as background for a leisurely morning meal. But it’s things like an evolving cookie menu that elevate it to celebrity status on the brunch scene.