Summer brief and magical in Land of a Thousand Lakes
Simplicity and silence are celebrated in this Scandinavian countr
There are few more quintessentially Finnish summer traditions than skinny-dipping in a lake at midnight after spending hours in a sauna, roasting makkara (sausage) on an open fire and sitting in semi-silence contemplating the meaning of life (there is no need for unnecessary small talk in Finland) while fighting against an army of mosquitoes. Petra Kaksonen.
The arrival of summer in Finland after a long and dark winter is magic I never get tired of.
During the light midsummer nights when the sun briefly dips below the horizon, sleeping is optional, as there is no time to waste before the weather turns and darkness rules again.
I am sure Finland is not the only place where the joke is always on the weather. You never quite know what you are going to get here, though: summer might be cold (8 -10 C) and wet or mild (20-25 C) and sunny.
There are few more quintessentially Finnish summer traditions than skinny-dipping in a lake at midnight after spending hours in a sauna, roasting makkara (sausage) on an open fire and sitting in semi-silence contemplating the meaning of life (there is no need for unnecessary small talk in Finland) while fighting against an army of mosquitoes.
Finland is often called the Land of a Thousand Lakes, and it’s not surprising that — with its more than 180,000 lakes — water and nature play a big part in Finnish life. Never is this more evident than during the short summer period of June and July (August already brings a hint of autumn as the days get shorter).
Cities empty out as most Finns disappear to their summer cottages or at least find a way to be closer to nature.
It’s a great opportunity to witness some peculiar, exclusively Finnish traditions that will make your trip hard to forget. How about trying your hand in a mosquito-killing contest, a specialty in Lapland, Finland’s northernmost region? Perhaps throwing rubber boots is more your thing? And you don’t need a wife to participate in a wife-carrying contest (any lady willing to participate will do).
If this is not quirky enough, you can also test your abilities in swamp football, cellphone-throwing or perhaps even an air-guitar contest.
More than 1,100 kilometres in length, Finland is at the same latitude as Alaska and one third of the country is above the Arctic Circle. In land size, Finland is the sixth largest country in the European Union and is about one third the size of British Columbia. However, with a population of 5.6 million, it is the most sparsely populated country in the EU.
With only 16 inhabitants per square kilometre, there’s plenty of space for contemplation and solitude. If you end up in Lapland, you’re sure to encounter more reindeer than people.
In the cities there is plenty to do, as Finland has a vibrant summer culture offering a smorgasbord of visual arts, theatre, dance and music.
Pori Jazz, held on Kirjurinluoto Island in the west coast city of Pori, is one of the oldest and best-known jazz festivals in Europe, attracting up to 160,000 music lovers every summer. In its 50-year history, it has seen the likes of Miles Davis, Paul Simon, Alicia Keys and many others.
Once a year, the city of Savonlinna in eastern Finland hosts the internationally renowned Savonlinna Opera Festival held in the dramatic setting of Olavinlinna, a castle built in 1475. For a month, this small town surrounded by water comes alive with thousands of tourists who become enchanted by the magical setting and high-calibre performances.
One of the most original and memorable festivals is the annual Midnight Sun Film Festival held in June in the small town of Sodankylä in Lapland. This unique festival draws people from around the world. For those wanting to stay up with the midnight sun watching movies, this is the only place to be.
For a slower pace, the New Valamo Monastery in Heinävesi, in the Southern Savonia region, offers retreats as well as a chance to participate in Orthodox church services, take courses ranging from icon painting to metalworking, or just enjoy the tranquil grounds surrounding the area. The monastery’s extensive library archives offer an interesting glimpse into the Orthodox religion. The monastery has a long history in winemaking, and you might get a chance to taste its newest product: Valamo Whisky.
Trains, combined with an extensive bus system, are an excellent way to travel around, with connec- tions to many major cities, including those in the north. Renting an RV is a good option, as it gives you the freedom to tour festivals, visit smaller towns and stay at campsites. Some visitors come back year after year to rent a cottage — a sure way to get the authentic Finnish experience.
There’s a certain simplicity to the Finnish way of life, and simplicity is the key in food as well: nothing fancy or complicated. Näkkileipä (smoked salmon on rye bread), soups and salads, barbecued fish and meat are staples of the summer menu. Food is often seasonal: locally grown vegetables, fish from the lakes and berries and mush- rooms from the forests nearby. When mealtime arrives, no howling north wind or pouring rain will deter a true Finn; if it’s summer, you must eat outside.
Many towns have tori (marketplaces) where locals sell berries, vegetables, fish and handmade crafts. It is also a place to have your iltapäiväkahvit (afternoon coffee) with korvapuusti (a cinnamon bun) and perhaps hear some town gossip.
Although not unique to Finland, karaoke is a serious pastime in many small towns. Visit a local pub on Saturday night and you might hear the infamous melancholic Finnish tango played into the night. Another Finnish summer tradition is a night at a lavatanssit (an open-air dance in a barnlike setting with a live band).
Finland might lack some of the majestic beauty of its Scandinavian neighbours, but it has an understated, quiet charm. It is a country where silence and calmness are still virtuous.
Every year I go back to Finland to experience the simple joys of summer: swimming in a lake or biking on familiar country roads on the way to buy ice cream. The magic of childhood summers is not quite there any longer, but it feels nostalgic, nevertheless. And as anyone from the north knows, the change of seasons forces you to appreciate what you have: enjoy this now, soon it will be dark again.
For more information, visit finland.fi