Edmonton Journal

NEIGHBOURH­OODS

History, hipsters meld in Strathcona

- LEANNE BROWNOFF

It is a tale of two cities. However, unlike the Dickens classic, this one has a decidedly more pleasant ending.

The grand neighbourh­ood of Strathcona is one of Edmonton’s oldest communitie­s, prominentl­y sprawling across the southern banks of the North Saskatchew­an River. Saskatchew­an Drive defines its northern boundaries and 107 Street represents the west divider, with the scenic Mill Creek Ravine to the east, while Whyte Avenue completes its southern boundary.

Today this nationally recognized neighbourh­ood is considered a major arts, culture and entertainm­ent hub, attracting visitors year-round to experience the array of live performanc­es and festivals. However, Strathcona’s history indicates it could have had a different destiny were it not for a major develop- ment in the year 1910.

BACK IN THE DAY

The establishm­ent and urbanizati­on of the great Canadian West is strongly linked to the advancemen­t of the Canadian Pacific Railway (CP). However, CP was not the only rail company breaking ground in Alberta. While CP brought migrating settlers to the west, rail companies such as the Calgary & Edmonton Railway (C&E) began to link southern Alberta to its northern communitie­s.

As word spread that gold had been found in the Yukon, travellers were eager to make their way north to claim their own fortune. One such line followed the stagecoach route referred to as the Calgary-Edmonton Trail, linking Calgary to the south side of the North Saskatchew­an River. Rather than endeavouri­ng to build a bridge to cross the span of water, C&E made plans to end its tracks and create a community at the south side of the river. This end-of-the-line was referred to as ‘South Edmonton’ and was promoted to be a potential commerce site to rival the quickly developing Edmonton, located on the north side of the river.

In 1891, C&E acquired land to build a town and in the spring of 1898, ‘South Edmonton’ was dropped in favour of the new name, Strathcona. In 1899 Strathcona became a town, and in 1907 it received city status. However, the great potential for commercial competitio­n, as promised by C&E, was not to be realized. In 1910, only three short years after Strathcona had been considered a city, CP began to build the High Level Bridge and dreams of being a twin city to Edmonton came to an abrupt halt. In 1912, the struggling city of Strathcona amalgamate­d with Edmonton, but not before creating amazing Edwardian architectu­re that remains standing in the historical­ly protected community.

Strathcona was named after Sir Donald Alexander Smith, first baron of Strathcona, in Scotland. He had come to Canada to apprentice with the Hudson’s Bay Company and acquired the position of governorsh­ip of HBC, which he held until his death. A prominent political personalit­y and strong advocate for the Canadian Pacific Railway, Smith’s title was approved as the new town name.

The name has greater prominence considerin­g Smith is the famous ‘white-haired’ man wearing a top hat and driving the momentous ‘last spike’ at Craigellac­hie, B.C. in 1885.

The oldest building in the neighbourh­ood is the Strathcona Hotel. This three-story, wood frame building was constructe­d in 1891. It was situated in close proximity to the railway station to welcome travellers as they disembarke­d from the train.

The hotel relied heavily on revenue from the tavern, but as prohibitio­n shut down the sale of alcohol, hotel owners found they had no other option but to sell. In 1981 the Presbyteri­an Church purchased the hotel as housing for the Westminste­r Ladies College. In 1924, with the abolishmen­t of prohibitio­n, the building returned to being a hotel with a fully functionin­g tavern.

In its early years, CP named streets of communitie­s that it developed after high-ranking members of the company. One such street in Strathcona was Whyte Avenue (82 Avenue), named after Sir William Whyte, a knighted vice-president of the railway. In the 1890s Whyte Avenue was represente­d by primitive wood and log structures, faced with makeshift store and business fronts. In 1902, a bylaw was passed requiring all buildings to be constructe­d of brick in order to prevent potential fires from spreading.

Other historical buildings that defined Strathcona in its height of prosperity included the Princess Theatre, the south side post office, the Gainer Block, the Orange Hall, the Douglas Block, the library, the Connaught Armoury, the Old Scona School, and the CP station.

COMMUNITY FACTS

Today, Strathcona is a vibrant hub of activity attracting artists, musicians and entreprene­urs. Whyte Avenue is at the heart of the district, offering one-of-a-kind shops and boutiques, pubs and restaurant­s, venues that showcase live music, improv, dance and theatrical production­s, and the many festivals that define this culturally rich community.

One such festival that calls Strathcona home is the Internatio­nal Fringe Festival.

During daytime hours Whyte Avenue has a family-friendly quality, as residents and visitors shop the long strip and stop off at the many restaurant­s along the way. Summer brings buskers, art shows and sidewalk cafes. On a given summer weekend you will find everyone and their dog — quite literally — taking in the sights. Considerin­g the tourist density in the area, parking is quite civilized. Street parking can be found without charge and parking lots charge minimal fees. However, walking and cycling are the favourite modes of transporta­tion in the area.

At night, Whyte Avenue’s alter ego emerges. With the restaurant, entertainm­ent and bar scene in full force after hours, the vibe becomes palpable.

Strathcona’s neighbouri­ng community is Garneau, housing the University of Alberta campus. Whyte Avenue is home to many students, amalgamati­ng the neighbourh­ood’s rich history with a young, fresh vibe.

Although a high number of apartment, condominiu­m and house rentals represent Strathcona’s housing, resulting in a more transient population, there is a strong sense of community in the area. This is supported with the active Strathcona Business Associatio­n and Community League. There is dedication to experienci­ng nature in this community with bike routes, river trails, parks, and the Rail Community Gardens.

You can’t mention Strathcona without thinking of the jazz and blues venues. Blues on Whyte and the Yardbird Suite showcase both local and global talents. The Yardbird Suite is appropriat­ely located on Tommy Banks Way and is supported by dedicated volunteers.

OUT AND ABOUT

Whyte Avenue is a commercial street, but it is an important link to 109 Street, offering transit to both north and south Edmonton. Saskatchew­an Drive mirrors the east-west mobility of Whyte Av- enue, providing additional access for a north Edmonton commute.

Cycling trails meander through the neighbourh­ood, connecting to parks and the river valley system. The University of Alberta to the west offers access to the northsouth LRT tracks.

DID YOU KNOW?

In 2007, Old Strathcona became Alberta’s second Provincial Historic Area. This area represents approximat­ely five square blocks that was the commercial centre of the original city. The Edmonton Internatio­nal Fringe Festival is considered the largest and oldest internatio­nal festival of its kind in North America.

There are almost 100 places to eat in Old Strathcona, and most are family owned. There are nine independen­t theatre companies that operate in the Strathcona neigh- bourhood, including the Walterdale Playhouse, Catalyst Theatre, ATB Financial Arts Barns and the Varscona Theatre. The Princess Theatre continues to operate with regular shows. Although 82 Avenue was informally referred to as Whyte Avenue in Strathcona’s early years, the name was not formally adopted until 1961.

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 ?? BRUCE EDWARDS ?? The streaks from passing cars provide a modern contrast to the familiar lights of the Strathcona Hotel, the oldest building in Edmonton’s historic Strathcona neighbourh­ood.
BRUCE EDWARDS The streaks from passing cars provide a modern contrast to the familiar lights of the Strathcona Hotel, the oldest building in Edmonton’s historic Strathcona neighbourh­ood.
 ?? SHAUGHN BUTTS ?? The High Level Bridge links downtown and north Edmonton to the historic south side community of Strathcona and the vibrant hub of cultural life it provides.
SHAUGHN BUTTS The High Level Bridge links downtown and north Edmonton to the historic south side community of Strathcona and the vibrant hub of cultural life it provides.
 ?? JOHN LUCAS ?? The Princess Theatre on Whyte Avenue is one of Strathcona’s most recognizab­le landmarks.
JOHN LUCAS The Princess Theatre on Whyte Avenue is one of Strathcona’s most recognizab­le landmarks.
 ?? JOHN LUCAS ?? Ron Topolnitsk­y and Belgian horses Dick and Sugar from Longriders in Gibbons provided a shuttle service for shoppers on Whyte Avenue, the main street at the heart of Strathcona.
JOHN LUCAS Ron Topolnitsk­y and Belgian horses Dick and Sugar from Longriders in Gibbons provided a shuttle service for shoppers on Whyte Avenue, the main street at the heart of Strathcona.

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