Tokiwa Ramen is popular for many good reasons
Ramen restaurant specializes in 10-hour pork broth and six-hour chicken broth
“No soup”
Day after day, I would attempt to visit Tokiwa Ramen only to be sent away by the dream-crushing neon sign hanging on the door.
I’d heard rumours of folks who’d managed to get in before the last drop of broth was slurped up, but never anyone I knew personally.
Was it an urban legend? A ramen pipe dream? Did anyone actually ever manage to eat at Tokiwa Ramen?
Never one to give up easily when it comes to food, I persevered and finally figured out that if I wanted a taste, I’d need to get there early, and on a weekend when I wasn’t stuck in an office building or pressed for time at lunch.
And so, one Sunday a few months ago, I trekked over to the Brewery District plaza on 104 Avenue. I spotted the bright green neon “soup” as I strolled up to Tokiwa, the red “no” thankfully not lit up. I looked at my watch: 11:21 a.m. The restaurant had barely been open 20 minutes. My quest was a success and my tactic — arriving before noon — has proven to be a successful strategy on my subsequent visits.
The creation of longtime Edmonton restaurateur Tatsuo Asai, formerly of Banzai and Japanese Village, Tokiwa has already earned itself a reputation for serving up consistently delicious, authentic ramen — and not much else. In fact, they’re so focused on soup that once the kitchen runs out of its homemade broth for the day, they close up shop and light up their Seinfeldesque “no soup” sign until the next day.
During a recent sunny Saturday I arrived a bit later than usual — about 1 p.m. — and within about five minutes I managed to snag one of the handful of seats at the small communal counter.
The rest of the small room was packed with diners sitting at the row of tables along the wall. Thankfully, the minimalist decor, high ceilings and tall front window keep the space from feeling too cramped or claustrophobic.
I settled into my spot, which offers a great view of the quick hands of kitchen staff as they assemble bowl after bowl of steaming broth and noodles.
I ordered a cup of hot Japanese green tea to sip ($2.50) as
I looked over the compact menu.
And when I say compact
I mean it — Tokiwa specializes in two main soup bases: a 10-hour pork broth, and a sixhour chicken broth, plus a seasonal special (during my recent visits it was a vegetarian broth), all made fresh with natural ingredients and no MSG.
There’s also pork, chicken and vegetarian rice bowls, and a couple of sides — pork gyoza ($5.50 for four pieces) and namasu, or marinated seaweed and vegetables ($4). There’s also a selection of craft beers and Japanese soda available.
I tend to stick to the soup when I visit — why stray from the specialty, I figure. Every bowl comes with the same ingredients — a marinated boiled egg, wood ear mushrooms, micro greens, bean sprouts, shanghai bok choi and a few slices of fried lotus root, plus a pile of rib-sticking fresh noodles. All bowls also come with an ample portion of pork charshu ( braised), which for $2 can be substituted for chicken.
And about the broths. These are clearly a labour of love, finely balanced and never rushed. The
classic pork Tonkatsu ($13) has a wonderfully velvety texture, thanks to pork bones being simmered for nearly a half- day, and heavy on that rich and earthy umami flavour.
If you like an even richer flavour, you might try the Black Garlic bowl ($14), dotted with black garlic oil so that it looks a bit like an environmental disaster in a cloudy lake. I was a bit worried the bowl might be too garlicky, but the oil provides some fragrant, savoury notes while still allowing the broth and fresh ingredients to shine.
The menu offers a few spicy broths, including a Spicy Miso chicken broth ($14.50), which packs a punch without knocking you out.
For the very adventurous, try the Aka Kara bowl ($14.50), which is made with three types of chili peppers and literally had me sweating as I attempted to slurp my way to the bottom.
If you prefer something a bit lighter, try the Yuzu Shio chicken broth bowl ($14), a clear citrusy broth that is much milder for your tastebuds. And since every table setting features the requisite chili oil, you can spice up any bowl to your own personal preference.
For a spot that almost exclusively focuses on one dish, Tokiwa manages to keep me from ever being bored with the menu.
Each bowl offers its own flavours and textures, with impressive consistency.
It should be no surprise to see this little ramen restaurant grow ever more popular, and the lines of hungry diners growing even longer. If you want a chance at a taste, it pays to keep an eye on the restaurant’s Instagram page (instagram.com/tokiwa_ramen) where staff occasionally post how many bowls of soup are left, or try my strategy of heading there early on a weekend.
If you want this bowl of ramen, you’re going to have to earn it.