A FAMILY’S PASSION
Talking up wines from Portugal
Portugal’s Douro Valley is a popular travel destination for foodies and wine lovers alike. But if a trip isn’t on your radar, the next best thing is meeting the winery proprietors right here at home. Joao Roquette Alvares Ribeiro was in Edmonton this month promoting wines available from the region.
The Douro is known for its famous Porto brands, but the wine industry has been in transition since 1986 when Portugal joined the European Union, opening the door for quintas (smaller farms) to export their products directly rather than using the mandated Port shippers in Vila Nova de Gaia.
The move allowed estates such as Quinta do Vallado, established in 1716, to restructure and stop selling their grapes to their own commercial Port brand, Ferreira. This was accomplished by selling Ferreira to Sogrape, Portugal’s largest winemaker, with labels such as Offley and Sandeman.
Quinta do Vallado is now operated by three cousins (fifth-generation descendants) including Joao’s father. They’re focusing on producing, bottling and marketing their own labels using the region’s top indigenous varietals. They retained the best vineyards — 50 hectares of “young vineyards” that were under 25 years old, as well as another 20 hectares of the best old plots (some more than 90 years old) — plus another 25 hectares of organic vineyards.
Joao was kept busy in Edmonton, pouring wine at numerous scheduled tastings, and one of the highlights was a collaborative effort, pairing dishes created by Steven Furgiuele, the talented FUGE sausage guy at OTTO Food and Drink. It was a wonderful evening.
Being a sixth-generation descendant at Quinta do Vallado, Joao was full of tales that entertained and educated us, making us laugh, cry and wonder in awe at the family history.
Let me explain the crying: That was over the recent return of the family dog named (aptly) Vallado, a large furry shepherd/ collie-looking cross, who went missing four years earlier. Joao showed us the video footage of an emaciated dog returning to his family.
We laughed when Joao asked us, “Who can name a grape from Argentina?” Most guests shouted out “Malbec!” When he asked “Who can name a grape from Portugal?” we were stumped.
Argentina has been producing wine for only about 40 years, while Portugal has been producing wine for over 300 years. So Joao has a lot of work to do. To start, he chose Touriga Nacional as the benchmark grape (there are over 200 red indigenous varietals to choose from) simply because it’s one of the most pronounceable grapes from the Douro valley and often the key player in a Port blend.
We were awed by his legendary great-grandmother, Dona Antonia Adelaide Ferreira, who was widowed very young (33 years old) and took over running the winery — an extraordinary position for a woman to be in during the 18th century. She was criticized and ridiculed by the locals until they realized she had become the largest land owner in the Douro region, producing world-class wines.
Unfortified wines from the Douro are trendy because they produce some of the best-valued high-quality wines, and what a privilege to taste wines from the producers themselves. In what other industry do the owners travel the world to share their passion directly with the consumer?
Here are some fantastic selections from Quinta do Vallado — look for the bright ochre labels. Oh, and if you pick up a bottle from this acclaimed producer, perhaps raise a glass to its history and the safe return of Vallado. Saude!
VALLADO DOURO RED $24
A blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo), Sousao and Vinhas Velhas, it’s an easy, fruity, red wine that’s dry and delicious. Unfortunately, this wine sold out (as well as the white and rose that are line-priced) when Joao was in Edmonton, but another shipment is expected soon. It’s perfect for the upcoming holiday season.
QUINTA DO VALLADO WHITE RESERVA $38
Although priced at the premium level, the extra expense if well worth it if you’re looking for something a little special — a composition of Gouveio, Arinto, Viosinho and Rabigato. Difficultto-pronounce grapes, but what a delicious rich wine that’s fullbodied but fresh and flavourful with notes from spending time in a oak cask. It’s a perfect coldweather white wine.
QUINTA DO VALLADO DOURO SUPERIOR RED ORGANIC $30
This was a stunner — a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Sousao from certified organic vineyards that was intensely aromatic and flavourful. It’s a bold wine full of ripe dark fruits, earth, spice and dried flower petals on a structured and fresh palate that’s “exuberant and mysterious.”
QUINTA DO VALLADO TOURIGA NACIONAL $38
A typical Portuguese red wine that’s 100 per cent Touriga Nacional — aromatic, powerful and rich with balsamic oak notes, ripe red fruits and violets — it’s a perfect red meat wine or just alone by the fire.
QUINTA DO VALLADO RESERVA FIELD BLEND $42
This wine is aged in barrels for about 18 months and made from older vines, with Touriga Nacional interplanted with numerous other varietals including Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela and Sousao. A wine that’s complex and intense with ripe dark berries, plums, violets, spice, tobacco leaf and black tea, it was the top seller at the tasting. Drink it now or hold it for 12 to 15 years.
QUINTA DO VALLADO PORTO TAWNY 10 YEARS OLD $33
The youngest of the aged tawny ports with a lighter body — it’s rich and warm with dried fig and roasted almonds. Serve slightly chilled (this is very important, or the alcohol will overwhelm) as an aperitif along with a plate of roasted walnuts, spiced almonds, iberico ham (or any air-dried ham), hard cheese, dried fig, and perhaps an apple tartin or creme brulee. Doesn’t this sound like a divine and delicious way to impress guests?!
Wine selections are available at select Alberta shops. Log onto liquorconnect.com to check availability and give them a call to verify.
Juanita Roos opened Color de Vino, a fine wine and spirits store, with her family in 2014. She has travelled to wine regions around the world and completed the prestigious WSET Diploma from London, England, the prerequisite for the Master of Wine program. Send your questions about wine to info@colordevino.ca.