You better Belize it !
Trio of like-minded hotels serving up luxury and adventure in Central American paradise
“There’s no way I’m going to fit into this thing,” I think to myself as I squeeze into a four-seat prop plane to make the 25-minute flight up to Belize City.
I’ve already been in a couple of slightly larger models during my week of travel, and that was before packing on a few pounds eating like a king, so I know things are going to be cramped. But my trip is winding down and I regretfully board the Tropic Air plane to start my journey home.
Belize, situated directly south of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula and bordered by Guatemala in the west, is an adventure-lover’s paradise where you can be splashing in the crystal-clear waters of the Caribbean one day and hiking through lush tropical rainforests the next.
Travelling by prop plane is a great way to get a bird’s-eye view of the atolls and jungles that help comprise the country. It can be a bumpy ride, but it’s also a lot of fun.
However you choose to travel, getting around this small country of less than 23,300 square kilometres won’t be difficult.
Neither will be communicating. A former British colony and part of the Commonwealth, Belize is the only Central American country where English is the first language. Yet for a nation with a population of fewer than 400,000, it’s amazingly diverse. Vibrant Mayan, Mestizo (Spanish-Indian), Garifuna (Black Carib), Creole (African-European), Mennonite, Chinese and Indian cultures make up its melting pot.
When you’re not scuba diving, horseback riding, kayaking, visiting Mayan ruins or just relaxing at a spa, you’ll want to sample local cuisine such as serre and listen to some traditional punta music.
And after a day of adventure, Unique Hotels of Belize are there to pamper you.
Victoria House, The Lodge at Chaa Creek and Naia Resort and Spa are like-minded, separately owned, intimate luxury resorts that share the ideals of sustainable tourism, hiring and buying locally, and supporting local artists and artisans. The three establishments work together to bring visitors the best Belize has to offer with tailored holiday packages. All three have highly attentive and knowledgeable staff who leave nothing to chance, yet each resort has something different to offer.
VICTORIA HOUSE RESORT AND SPA
As if the food at Victoria House Resort and Spa isn’t delicious enough, Canadian managers Janet Woollam and Brent Kirkman inform me as I am dining on mouth-watering surf and turf that renowned chef Omar Pereney, who cooked for the elder Bushes, will be coming down from Houston three or four times a year to consult on the menu. It’s news the many wedding parties that come to the establishment will surely be pleased to hear.
In operation since 1981, the resort is situated at the south end of San Pedro, a colourful but laidback city of about 17,000 smack in the middle of Ambergris Caye and a 20-minute flight from the capital, Belize City.
We make our way from the airport by golf cart — the most popular mode of transportation on the island — to the tranquil establishment about 10 minutes away.
The award-winning luxury resort has a private, pristine white-sand beach, two pools, three restaurants, a magnificent spa, yoga, a gym, stately rooms that overlook the Caribbean and complimentary Wi-Fi, bicycles and kayaks.
In all, there are 42 well-appointed state rooms, casitas, plantation rooms, suites and villas. I stay in one of the generous infinity suites (starting at US$660/night), the newest addition to the resort.
The large one-bedroom, twofloor suite features a spacious living room, dining area, full kitchen, three verandas, a comfy king bedroom and an indoor/outdoor shower. Relax on your roomy second-floor balcony as you look out over the aquamarine Caribbean and sip on a tasty Belikin beer.
One of the primary attractions of Ambergris Caye is scuba diving on the planet’s second-largest barrier reef, just a short boat ride away. Victoria House has its own dive shop and also works with others in the area to maximize your experience.
I can honestly say this ranks among my best diving experiences. Sharks, lobsters, turtles, red snappers, eels and groupers are abundant. The resort is also a popular destination for those who enjoy deepsea fishing.
THE LODGE AT CHAA CREEK
After an hour flight west from San Pedro, the plane touches down in a field near the town of San Ignacio. From there it’s just a short drive to the lush 160-hectare nature reserve in the heart of Belize’s tropical rainforest. After checking in, we lunch at the newly launched and intimate open-hearth restaurant where traditional Belizean cuisine is served.
A delicious curried chicken dish and a salad made from vegetables grown at the resort’s own organic farm are washed down with a refreshing drink made from hibiscus flowers. Can’t think of a better way to start my stay.
Founded in 1981 and nestled between the forested slopes of the Macal River Valley, the multiple award-winning Chaa Creek offers a variety of splendid cottages and villas with all the modern conveniences.
I stay in one of the luxurious Ix Chel Villas (starting at US$799/ night), which comes with a Jacuzzi, an indoor/outdoor shower, welcoming king bed, stunning 180-degree views of the jungle and a personal butler. Grab a beverage, hit the hot tub and take in the sights and sounds of the jungle as the sun goes down.
Not into mod cons? Rough it at the resort’s Macal River Camp, which starts at US$65 a night.
Socially conscious owners Mick and Lucy Fleming, who donate to and organize several environmental and community projects, tell me as we are having a savoury dinner under the stars next to the generous infinity pool that Prince Harry once stayed here. He and wife, Meghan, have yet to accept a standing invitation to return and, if the royal couple doesn’t, I may just have to take their place because it is such a wonderful visit.
Get up for an early morning birdwatching session and see if you can spot a keel-billed toucan, the national bird of Belize. Or maybe you’ll catch a glimpse of one of those noisy howler monkeys. Go canoeing on the Macal River or horseback ride past an ancient Mayan ruin on one of the lodge’s robust steeds.
Take a guided naturalist hike through jungle trails. If you’re up for a wander, head to the spectacular Xunantunich, one of the largest Mayan ruins in the country, not far from the property.
And after you’ve done it all, get a treatment at the resort’s comfortable spa with its panoramic views of the jungle and valley below.
Standard stays include Wi-Fi, breakfast, a tour of the butterfly farm and natural history centre, daily guided bird walks, guided or self-guided tours of rainforest medicinal trail and canoeing. There are no TVs, so prepare to tune out.
NA IA RESORT AND SPA
As you’re taking your seat at 1981 restaurant, named for the year the country obtained its independence, you might notice some rather famous faces hanging on the wall. Naia owner Stuart Krohn worked on the 1986 movie The Mosquito Coast, partly filmed in Belize, and has photos of Harrison Ford, Helen Mirren and River Phoenix from their time on the set. Also of interest is the collection of rum bottles from years gone by hanging above the bar.
While both are nice talking points, chances are you have come here for the resort’s gorgeous spa, the largest in the country, and a yoga retreat. The 930-square-metre Thai-style spa, located in 2.4 hectares of forested, lily-covered lagoons, houses a yoga and movement studio, fitness centre and salt-water pool. Individual treatment suites, including a couple’s suite tucked away on its own tiny island, extend over the water.
If you’ve been getting a workout on one of the resort’s complimentary kayaks while trying to spot a manatee in the lagoon, a deep massage with hot stones is a fabulous way to work out the kinks.
The award-winning establishment, nestled within a private 90-hectare reserve on the Placencia Peninsula in southern Belize, the jumping off point for diving with whale sharks, is the newcomer to this trio of resorts, having been in operation for two years. But its luxury, quality and service is on par with its more established counterparts.
Naia is comprised of 35 beach houses and treetop villas (from US$325/night), some with their own plunge pools and most with indoor and outdoor showers, that use custom-made and locally produced craft furnishings. Situated on a 1.5-km stretch of beach, all have views of the shimmering Caribbean. My one-bedroom beach house consists of a large, comfortable living room, full kitchen, big veranda, huge soaker tub in a spacious bathroom, a king bed and Wi-Fi.
Along with its signature restaurant, which gives a modern take on traditional cuisine, there are the more casual open-air Beach Bar and Grill, the perfect place to kick back near the pool, and the Spa Cafe. The menu there includes healthy fare such as fresh salads and vegetable wraps, with some ingredients coming from the resort’s own organic garden.
Just a 10-minute drive away is charming Placencia Village, dotted with colourful beachfront bars, boutique hotels and restaurants. We hit Tipsy’s for some rum-based cocktails after strolling down the village’s famous central boardwalk to catch the annual arts festival. It’s a great way to wrap up what has been a perfect trip.