The INSIDE PASSAGE Gets Wild...
Why to explore this place of giants by small ship now
Glenn McMaster assumed his favorite position at the bow of the zodiac, ready to pivot backwards into the shallow water and haul the inflatable boat onto shore. A retired geologist, McMaster liked helping out the crew on his expeditionary voyage through Canada’s Inside Passage with Maple Leaf Adventures. This time, however, he noticed his fellow zodiac passengers silently signaling for him to remain in the boat. He sat, turned and saw why they’d aborted the landing: three grizzly cubs appeared onshore not ten feet away from the zodiac. “It was the experience of a lifetime,” Glenn says, “The crew didn’t get nervous at all, it was like ‘hey, this is part of the experience,’ because they knew exactly what they were doing. The bears just stayed put and stared at us.” This is the stuff people dream of as they pack for their Inside Passage trip. But, how do you know you’ll experience this kind of intimate magic, in a place as big as North America’s famed Inside Passage? Finding a really intimate-sized trip is a critical step, says Maureen Gordon, co-owner of Maple Leaf Adventures, the boutique expedition cruise company that McMaster traveled with. And if you’re drawn to Alaska by the nature, make sure you look for an expedition cruise (the smaller the boat, the close to nature it is). Here are a few other things to know before you go. Where Mountainous Coast Meets the Pacific Ocean The Inside Passage is more than a passage. While its name hails from its history as a protected, 1,000-mile waterway from Seattle, WA to Skagway, AK, it comprises 31,000 miles of undulating shoreline: thousands of islands, dozens of fjords, marine and terrestrial ecosystems filled with wildlife, villages, towns and nations. Thousands of offshore islands along the British Columbia and Alaska coastline break the Pacific Ocean’s swell against their western edges, calming the seas and providing a haven for boaters unlike anything else on the planet. You can’t see it all in a single trip, but no matter which part you visit, you’ll visit a maze of magical enclaves: hidden beaches, whale hotspots in the sparkling sea, meadows at the rainforest edge where bears eat, icebergs at the foot of glaciers where seals rest, hot springs above the shoreline, researcher outposts, and communities accessed by wooden docks. Intimate Adventures in Nature & Culture The route of large cruise ships in the Inside Passage is well known. Yet this is only one way to explore the Inside Passage – and not the best one for nature or small-scale travel fans. “On the big ships, you need to be in a group of friends or acquaintances,” said Zulette Gordon, a retired professor from BC, Canada who has travelled on several Maple Leaf trips. “It’s because there you don’t get to meet people the way you do on a small ship.” Likewise, Paul and Sue Kollet of Washington State chose Maple Leaf’s 12-passenger tugboat Swell for their trips. “It felt like our own boat, close the water,” said Sue. “You leave the noise behind, you really get to hear the sounds of nature. Getting out on the zodiac – that really felt like exploration together. We too away an appreciate for nature and wildlife. We loved the whales but we learned about so many more things, including sea stars and birdlife.” The itineraries of small expeditions are also designed to maximize time in nature, including wildlife havens, some of which have exclusive access permits. “We saw interesting things up close that we never see in the cities,” said Gordon of her trips. “We saw porpoises and whales (their bubble-net feeding was incredible), sea otters, seals, and bears.” When cruising, the ships are close to shore, and the decks close to the water, providing constant views of seabirds, marine mammals, and the intricate patterns of tidelines on the sea’s surface. Wildlife All Around, All the Time The itineraries of small expeditions are also designed to maximize time in nature, including wildlife havens, some of which have exclusive access permits. “We saw interesting things up close that we never see in the cities,” said Gordon of her trips. “We saw porpoises and whales (their bubble-net feeding was incredible), sea otters, seals, and bears.” When cruising, the ships are close to shore, and the decks close to the water, providing constant views of seabirds, marine mammals, and the intricate patterns of tidelines on the sea’s surface. Twice a day guests board the shore boats to explore with naturalists.
Regenerative Travel with Local Guides
On Maple Leaf’s trips, the crew are local mariners, naturalists and hosts who are proud to make a living sharing their home coastline with guests. They are proud to work for a company that supports conservation -- through its own direct action work and through donations certified by 1% For The Planet. “It’s an intimate situation with the crew, who become family in a way,” said Kollett. Onboard and ashore, guests have opportunities to taste the local flavours: ripe huckleberries, sea asparagus and spruce tips. At times, naturalists help forage for wild delicacies and the ship’s chef prepares a meal with the pickings. Guests can explore the wonder of the Inside Passage in the company of Maple Leaf Adventures’ genial crew this spring, summer or fall. Book by visiting mapleleafadventures.com or call our team at 1-250-386-7245.