QUEBEC CITY A WINTER’S TALE
“We love winter here!” one very enthusiastic local said to me as I huddled by a cozy fireplace at Quebec City’s historic Auberge Saint-Antoine. One look outside proves that the Québécois know how to do winter right: People are cross-country skiing along the grand boulevards, iceskating at Place D’Youville and even canoeing along the partially frozen St. Lawrence River. If you absolutely must go inside, the 95-room Relais & Châteaux boutique hotel is the beating heart of the Old Port, one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods. Sip the signature hot chocolate (a mix of local artisan chocolate and pure cream) on one of the lobby’s sheepskin-clad banquettes to warm up before you head back into the snow. PLAY Carnaval de Québec—which started back in 1894—celebrates the very best that a Quebec City winter has to offer, from outdoor sports to dining and dancing. From January 29 until February 14, you can fill your Thermos with Caribou, Carnaval’s signature cocktail (a concoction of vodka, brandy, Canadian sherry and Canadian port), and take in everything from ultracompetitive (and icy!) canoe races to the famed snow sculptures. SHOP Tucked beneath the cliffs that run along the St. Lawrence River, Quartier Petit Champlain is home to a kitschy mix of art galleries, artisanal shops and authentic bistros. Must-buys: handmade moccasins at Amimoc, miniature vintage cars at Tabagie Casse-Cou and maple syrup at La Petite Cabane à Sucre de Québec (a.k.a. the Sugar Shack!). EAT At Panache, Auberge Saint-Antoine’s restaurant, you can take in the post-and-beam architecture while savouring chef Louis Pacquelin’s local menu. (Think game and trout paired with winter squash and sweet cabbage salad.) DRINK You’ll find some of the best Québécois wines at Le Tournebroche, the brainchild of French chef Stéphane Roth and restaurateur Guy Collin (both head up the top-rated restaurant Le Patriarche). The bar and restaurant serve dozens of local wines and microbrews—and the house-made brew pairs perfectly with the rotisserie chicken. EXPLORE Further proving the region’s love of all things snow and ice, the 44-room Hôtel de Glace (or Ice Hotel) has become one of Quebec City’s most beloved attractions since it opened on New Year’s Day in 2001. It’s built from scratch every December. (Last year’s theme was Space-Time; this year’s will be announced on December 8.) Past highlights have included a chapel, a café, a bar and even a spa. n