Yes, you cansee L.A. without a car.

Soak up the L.A. scene on foot.

ELLE (Canada) - - Contents - BySarahLaing

pair­ing new san­dals with a new city is kind of a rookie mis­take. But, in my de­fence, I thought my feet would be safe in L.A., a city no­to­ri­ous for its car-bound life­style. (I mean, ba­si­cally all of The Hills seemed to hap­pen in peo­ple’s con­vert­ibles, so….) Much to my blis­tered heels’ sur­prise, how­ever, I spent a few days in the West Coast cap­i­tal al­most en­tirely on my feet—and in all that wan­der­ing and strolling (and even­tual winc­ing and limp­ing), I dis­cov­ered a “new L.A.” that has so much more than Rodeo Drive and In-N-Out Burger. It’s a city that’s slowly got­ten cool through a grad­ual mi­gra­tion of cre­ative thinkers, like na­tive New Yorker Lena Dun­ham and Tom Ford, who showed his fall/ win­ter 2015 col­lec­tion there in­stead of in Lon­don. I also re­turned home with a per­fectly­bro­ken-in pair of Church’s Kelsey san­dals.

EX­PLORE Here’s a recipe for a per­fect L.A. morn­ing: Start your day at the 99-year-old Grand Cen­tral Mar­ket, on the edge of the Fi­nan­cial Dis­trict, where you’ll make two stops. First, you’ll grab an almond latte (and an almond crois­sant, be­cause why not?) at G&B Cof­fee and sip that on a bench out­side fac­ing The An­gels Flight, the old tramway lo­cal res­i­dents used back when this was the city’s ope­nair gro­cery store. Af­ter­wards, you’ll head far­ther into the mar­ket (now home to 2,800 square me­tres of food ven­dors who hawk every­thing from Chi­nese food to green juices). To­ward the back, you’ll run into a lineup. That’s the queue for Eg­gslut, and you should get into it ASAP if you have any hope of get­ting your hands on its leg­endary brioche-bunned ba­con, egg and cheese sando. You’re now prop­erly fu­elled for your visit to The Broad, the brand-new con­tem­po­rary-art mu­seum a short walk up the hill. Warn­ing: If you want to get into the In­fin­ity Mir­rored Room (as seen in Adele’s When

We Were Young video), there’s an­other line in your fu­ture, but it’s to­tally worth it to have an ex­is­ten­tial cri­sis all alone in a room of re­flec­tive glass.

SHOP Down­town L.A. (or DTLA) is eas­ily the most pedes­trian-friendly part of the city. If you’re af­ter a more ephemeral sort of sou­venir, the his­toric Orig­i­nal Los Angeles Flower Mar­ket is a great first stop of the day; you can pe­ruse over 100 va­ri­eties of in-sea­son blooms along­side pro­fes­sional florists who will do more with those pe­onies than just In­sta­gram them. Poketo, lo­cated in the Arts Dis­trict, is one of those stores that you’ll go into to browse and emerge with a bunch of pens, note­books and a phone case—many by cool in­die de­sign­ers—that you didn’t know you needed but now can’t live without. If you want to get your hair cut and pick up

a lit­tle some­thing from an emerg­ing de­signer, try The Well on South Olive Street: This con­verted ware­house boasts a sa­lon, pop-ups of lo­cal de­signer goods and an in-house line of minimalist ba­sics for men and women.

STAY Right in the heart of the down­town core’s re­nais­sance—and just around the cor­ner from A.P.C. and Acne—is the so-hip-it-hurts Ace Ho­tel. The re­fur­bished art-deco build­ing is full of quirky touches—pen­cil sketches on the walls of the lobby, gui­tars in guest rooms—that are a nod to its for­mer life as the United Artists head­quar­ters, and it has a killer cof­fee bar right by the doors, per­fect for grab­bing a latte and a cho­co­late-chip cookie be­fore you head back out into the city. And for when you re­turn, per­haps a lit­tle foot­sore, later in the af­ter­noon? Up on the 12th floor there’s a pool and cov­ered pa­tio with in­cred­i­ble views of the city through the flower-cov­ered rail­ing.

EAT If you’re stay­ing at the Ace, there’s no short­age of great op­tions in your vicin­ity. Just down the block there’s the vin­tage-y glam Faith & Flower (get the dev­illed eggs), Guisa­dos for tacos and Cole’s for the leg­endary “French dip” roast- beef sand­wich. But if you re­ally want to sam­ple a smor­gas­bord of lo­cal cui­sine, we sug­gest get­ting in touch with the in­fec­tiously-L.A.boos­t­er­ing “Sally from the Val­ley,” a.k.a. Sally Tiongco, the founder of Six Taste Food Tours. In the space of an af­ter­noon, she’ll take you to around seven dif­fer­ent eater­ies, like, say, Ja­maican joint Green Grotto and bak­ery Semi Sweet, for a graz­ing-size tast­ing menu of what’s hot and hap­pen­ing in the culi­nary scene at the time. Fun fact: Sally says that L.A.’s restau­rant of­fer­ings are so vi­brant that she and her hus­band have made a pledge to never go out to­gether to the same place twice. If you want to ven­ture far­ther afield than DTLA, she also of­fers tours for other on-the-rise ar­eas, like the Arts Dis­trict and Thai Town.

GO OUT For a night on the town An­ge­leno-style, start with a show at the Re­gent Theater, orig­i­nally a cinema built in 1914 that’s now a re­volv­ing door of in­die-mu­sic ex­cel­lence, like How to Dress Well and Hinds, both of whom have shows there this fall. (Hint.) Keep the party go­ing lit­er­ally next door at Lit­tle Easy, a N’Awl­ins-themed jazz joint lo­cated in the base­ment of the Alexan­dria Ho­tel. We hear great things about its Saz­erac cocktail. (An­other hint.) Got a post-jet-lag sec­ond wind? These next two wa­ter­ing holes re­quire a brief Uber or Lyft ride, but given that your driver is prob­a­bly the next Ryan Reynolds, the quick trips are quin­tes­sen­tial L.A. ex­pe­ri­ences in them­selves. For some­thing plein-air, head to the newly opened rooftop at Mama Shel­ter, where you’ll quaff pitcher af­ter pitcher of san­gria while snug­gling un­der colour­ful blan­kets. For more of a speakeasy ex­peri­ence, roll up to the re­frig­er­a­tor door at Good Times at Davey Wayne’s, which opens to re­veal a bar that’s ba­si­cally a liv­ing room from the 1970s, right down to the boozy snow cones on of­fer.

Clock­wise, from top left: Mama Shel­ter; Poketo; the Orig­i­nal Los Angeles Flower Mar­ket; In­fin­ity Mir­roredRoom; Eg­gslut

The Ace Ho­tel rooftop pa­tio and pool; the Ace Ho­tel café (inset); Good Times at Davey Wayne’s (far right); the dev­illed eggs at Faith & Flower (be­low)

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