ELLE (Canada) - - Beauty -

The fra­grance-mak­ing game has long been dom­i­nated by those with XY chro­mo­somes and a Grasse (the mecca of fra­grance) birth cer­tifi­cate, with po­si­tions of­ten passed down through gen­er­a­tions. But over the past few years, there has been a sub­tle shift to­ward fe­male per­fumers with zero fa­mil­ial ties ris­ing through the ranks. Cre­ative noses like Daniela An­drier (think ev­ery Prada fra­grance you’ve ever in­haled), Marie Sala­m­agne (Mai­son Martin Margiela, Azze­dine Alaïa) and Julie Massé (Gior­gio Ar­mani Sì and Sì Rose Sig­na­ture) are step­ping into the spot­light. And last year, beloved Her­mès house per­fumer Jean-Claude El­lena named a suc­ces­sor in Chris­tine Nagel, a Geneva-born per­fume hit­maker (Nar­ciso Ro­driguez for Her, Miss Dior Chérie) with a back­ground in or­ganic chem­istry. Her de­but juice, Galop d’Her­mès Eau de Par­fum Spray ($222 for 50 mL), is a saf­fron-spiked ac­cord that weaves to­gether leather and rose notes. While the com­bi­na­tion’s bou­quet is both tough and soft, Nagel as­sures us of its true in­ten­tions. “It’s a man­i­festo of fem­i­nin­ity,” she says. We’ll spritz to that.

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