What goes around comes around.

ELLE (Canada) - - Contents -

What goes around al­ways comes back around, even with It bags.

There are cer­tain bags that are im­mune to trends—a quilted Chanel or a wo­ven Bot­tega Veneta comes to mind. Then there are the more ephemeral styles that sky­rocket to It sta­tus only to be top­pled by the next big thing. Here, we track how a bag goes from run­way rookie to must-have.

STAGE 1 De­sign “A lux­ury bag, in its truest sense, is a bag that stands the test of time in both qual­ity and de­sign,” says Myriam Schae­fer, the cre­ative eye be­hind some of the most mem­o­rable bags of the past two decades. The Parisian de­signer, who now runs her own epony­mous line of high-end bags, cre­ated one of Ba­len­ci­aga’s most iconic ac­ces­sories—the City bag—in 2001.

STAGE 2 En­dorse­ment Af­ter the City de­buted on Ba­len­ci­aga’s fall 2001 run­way, Kate Moss started car­ry­ing the stud­ded textured-leather purse, caus­ing it to sell out. It wasn’t the first time star power helped cat­a­pult a bag to main­stream ma­nia. Gisele Bünd­chen sin­gle-hand­edly put Mul­berry bags on the map when she walked in the house’s spring/ sum­mer 2003 run­way show car­ry­ing a multi-buck­led tote that went on to be named af­ter the supe. More re­cently, fash­ion’s reign­ing wun­derkind Alessan­dro Michele brought Gucci’s clas­sic Diony­sus back to rel­e­vance with his tricked-out takes on the flap-bag style.

STAGE 3 Thrill of the chase In 2005, all 8,000 of Chloé’s Padding­ton bags sold out be­fore they even hit stores, thanks to the brand’s strate­gic celebrity gift­ing. (Fact: Kate Bos­worth can sell a lot of leather purses.) The same year, Marc Ja­cobs’ Stam bag (named af­ter Cana­dian model Jessica Stam) was so pop­u­lar, depart­ment stores closed their wait-lists. In 2017, on fash­ion search en­gine Lyst, hits for Gucci bags were at a high—Marmont and Diony­sus took the spots for first- and fifth-most-searched bags, re­spec­tively.

STAGE 4 The move on Once a style goes main­stream, many flock to the next ris­ing trend. In 2008, it was Proenza Schouler’s PS1 satchel. De­signed to be an anti-It bag, the util­i­tar­ian style de­throned the celebrity-en­dorsed stal­warts of the early 2000s, iron­i­cally. In more recent years, shop­pers have left their prized old-school lux­ury totes in the dust (bags) and turned to buzzy In­sta-fa­mous brands like Cult Gaia and Si­mon Miller.

STAGE 5 The resur­gence For proof that fash­ion is noth­ing if not cycli­cal, look no fur­ther than the Dior Saddle bag. The early-2000s style, last seen in the crook of Paris Hil­ton’s arm, made an un­ex­pected ap­pear­ance on Dior’s fall/win­ter 2018 run­way fol­low­ing its resur­gence among mod­els and in­flu­encers. “With the hy­per-fast pace at which trends come and go, thanks to the ef­fects of so­cial me­dia, peo­ple are long­ing for clas­sic her­itage pieces with a sense of nos­tal­gia,” says Rati Levesque, chief mer­chant at lux­ury re­sale site The Real Real, where de­mand for vin­tage Sad­dles has dou­bled this year. Levesque also pre­dicts that, with the im­mi­nent de­par­ture of Phoebe Philo, Cé­line’s for­got­ten Lug­gage tote is bound to come back to rel­e­vance. “Iconic styles made their mark on his­tory for good rea­son, and these bags will al­ways be rel­e­vant,” adds Schae­fer. To her point, af­ter a hia­tus from the spot­light, the City bag has found a new gen­er­a­tion of adopters—Ken­dall Jen­ner among them.

Kate Moss car­ries the OG Ba­len­ci­aga City bag in 2003, and Ken­dall Jen­ner stepped out with the graf­fiti ver­sion in 2017.

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