BEAUTY

New tex­tures, in­gre­di­ents and skin­care ben­e­fits: The lat­est sun­screens all have a side hus­tle.

ELLE (Canada) - - Storyboard - BySarahDaniel

Your sun­screen isn’t just sun­screen.

WHILE MOD­ERN SKIN­CARE has come to mir­ror our multi-task­ing lives, with prod­ucts promis­ing to do every­thing from hy­drate and cor­rect to brighten and blur, sun­screens have tra­di­tion­ally stayed in their lane, fo­cus­ing on do­ing one thing well: pro­tect­ing skin from UV rays. But a new gen­er­a­tion of sun­screens is of­fer­ing more than just SPF. “A few years ago, we saw the growth of al­pha­bet creams like BB and CC creams, which pro­vide count­less skin­care ben­e­fits, and now we’re see­ing some of those trends in the sun­screen cat­e­gory,” says Amy Chung, Cana­dian beauty in­dus­try an­a­lyst for NPD Canada. Take Drunk Ele­phant Um­bra Tinte Phys­i­cal Daily De­fense: A phys­i­cal block, it packs 20-per­cent zinc ox­ide (rather than chem­i­cal fil­ters), an ap­plause-wor­thy num­ber con­sid­er­ing that its tex­ture is pleas­ant and it im­parts a dewy sheen. But it also fea­tures mois­tur­iz­ing, omega-rich marula oil and star an­tiox­i­dants like as­tax­an­thin, which pre­vents ox­ida­tive dam­age, and grape-juice ex­tract, which re­duces red­ness. Or there’s Avène Com­plex­ion Cor­rect­ing Shield, in­fused with hy­drat­ing ce­ramides as well as tiny light-dif­fus­ing pearls that blur im­per­fec­tions. And oily-skin types will ap­pre­ci­ate La Roche-Posay An­the­lios XL Dry Touch, a gel-cream that min­i­mizes pores and mat­ti­fies skin—a wel­come de­par­ture from shine-en­hanc­ing greasy sun­screens.

One of the trick­i­est things to get right about sun­screen is the tex­ture—of­ten chalky and sticky, it can put off even the most com­mit­ted user. “The big­gest hur­dle is aes­thet­ics,” says Naomi Furgiuele, vice-pres­i­dent of Global Beauty R&D, Face & Sun Care at John­son & John­son. “They don’t want it white, and they don’t want it smelly,” she says, cit­ing feed­back from a sun­screen study the com­pany con­ducted be­fore de­vel­op­ing Neu­tro­gena Hy­dro Boost Wa­ter Gel Sun­screen SPF 50, which couldn’t feel more dif­fer­ent from the sun­screens of the past. There’s also Cop­per­tone’s

Clearly Sheer Whipped Sun­screen SPF 50, which spreads on skin smoothly, much like the creamy dessert top­ping it con­jures up, and dis­ap­pears al­most im­me­di­ately.

Trend­ing in­gre­di­ents (and top­ics) are also in­flu­enc­ing sun­screen for­mu­la­tion. Sunny Daze CBD Sun Cream, from Bri­tish brand Felix & Ambrosia, fea­tures in­dus­trial-hemp-de­riv­a­tive CBD oil (known for its anti-in­flam­ma­tory prop­er­ties) and glit­ter—the shim­mer­ing flecks come from plant cel­lu­lose, which nat­u­rally biode­grades, in­stead of the usual mi­croplas­tics. When we’re not soak­ing up the sun out­side, we’re soak­ing up blue light from our com­puter and phone screens, which is be­lieved to ac­cel­er­ate aging and dam­age skin. Known as high­en­ergy vis­i­ble light (HEV), it’s some­thing skin­care brands have al­ready started to ad­dress. Sun­screen pi­o­neer Coola re­cently launched Sun Silk Drops (in the United States—the Cana­dian launch will be next sum­mer), which fea­ture SPF and “patented in­gre­di­ents specif­i­cally for HEV, in­frared-light and broad­spec­trum-UVA and -UVB pro­tec­tion,” says founder and CEO Chris Birchby, not­ing that these blue-light block­ers will start to make their way into many of the brand’s other for­mu­las. This new is­sue of screen time echoes what der­ma­tol­o­gists have been telling us for years: Pro­tect­ing our skin is a full-time job. And now, thanks to these new tex­tures and cut­ting-edge for­mu­las, there are no ex­cuses for skip­ping sun­screen. n A quick look at a woman’s neck and hands can tele­graph how much time she has spent in the sun over the years. But our lips say a lot too, es­pe­cially be­cause we of­ten over­look them when we ap­ply sun­screen. “Lips get a lot of sun ex­po­sure be­cause they are right in the mid­dle of the face,” says Dr. In­grid Jarvis, a der­ma­tol­o­gist at Toronto’s SpaMed­ica. “The skin is also very thin and has less melanin, which pro­tects skin from sun­light.” This makes lips more prone to skin can­cer, and sun dam­age also de­pletes col­la­gen, which can cause fine lines to form around the mouth. Jarvis sug­gests ap­ply­ing sun­screen that is specif­i­cally for­mu­lated for the lips and to do so fre­quently “be­cause we tend to lick it off or it comes off when we take a sip of cof­fee or have a snack.” And for the same rea­son that sun wor­ship­pers should never have slathered them­selves in baby oil (re­flec­tive sur­faces at­tract the sun), avoid wear­ing high-shine lip­sticks or glosses. From left: Fresh Sugar Punch Lip Treat­ment SPF 30 ($29); Shi­seido UV Lip Color Splash SPF 30 ($30); Eos Ac­tive Pro­tec­tion Lip Balm SPF 30 ($4). For de­tails, see Shop­ping Guide.

From left: Drunk Ele­phant Um­bra Tinte Phys­i­cal Daily De­fense SPF 30 ($44); Neu­tro­gena Hy­dro Boost Wa­ter Gel Sun­screen SPF 50 ($20); La Roche-Posay An­the­lios XL Dry Touch SPF 60 ($29); Felix & Ambrosia Sunny Daze CBD Sun Cream SPF 30 ($14.50); Coola SPF 50 Min­eral Sport Sun­screen Stick ($39); Cop­per­tone Clearly Sheer Whipped Sun­screen SPF 50 ($10); Avène Com­plex­ion Cor­rect­ing Shield SPF 50 ($35)

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