After successful runs behind the scenes at top fashion houses, these designers are entering the spotlight.
WHO Christoffer Lundman. CV The Swede worked at Acne and Tom Ford and was most recently Burberry’s design director.
NEW GIG Head of design and creative for Tiger of Sweden. “I saw the first collection as a kind of reset,” says Lundman, who returned to his roots to become Stockholm-based Tiger of Sweden’s first creative director in the company’s 115-year history. Expect to see a renewed emphasis on tailoring—something the label is already known for—but now with a shrugged-off elegance. Standout pieces include a quilted pencil skirt and a jersey midi-dress that look just as good with knee-high boots as they do with sneakers. We love the subtle references to Swedish cinema and furniture design: A canvas tote resembles the basket weave of Bruno Mathsson chairs, and the lookbook was shot in the same studio as the Ingmar Bergman film Fanny & Alexander. Lundman believes that the brand is right at home in Canada. “There’s an egalitarian attitude that Sweden and Canada share, and I think it informs how we dress—like there are no rules.”
WHO Rok Hwang. CV Korean-born Hwang, based in London, England, worked with Phoebe Philo on her debut collection for Céline before going on to freelance for Chloé and Louis Vuitton. NEW GIG His own line, Rokh. Much like his former boss Philo, Hwang has a knack for taking familiar pieces—a double-breasted coat, a chiffon dress—and turning them into exciting new staples. Philophiles, meet your new go-to.
WHO Natalie Ratabesi. CV The Central Saint Martins alum worked at Dior and Ralph Lauren prior to becoming the creative director for Yeezy Season 4. NEW GIG Her own line, Tre. There’s a hint of Yeezy’s androgynous, casual sensibility in Ratabesi’s collection—namely in the slashed-sleeve hoodies and satin bomber jackets. But the line is so much more than just neutral-tone streetwear. It runs the gamut from elegant (a biascut gown) to edgy (a long-sleeved leather bra top). No wonder Hailey Baldwin is a fan.