ELLE (Canada) - - Lifestyle -

DO There are al­most as many ghosts here as there are tourists. Grab a cock­tail to go and take a ghost tour. Is it campy? Ab­so­lutely, but it’s a great way to see the city and learn about New Or­leans’ rich and some­times vi­o­lent history—from beloved voodoo queen Marie Laveau to freaky se­rial killers. Make sure your guide takes you to St. Louis ceme­tery, where many fa­mous faces are buried. SEE French­men Street in By­wa­ter boasts the best jazz clubs in the city. (NOLA is the birth­place of Louis Arm­strong, af­ter all.) I made some friends and spent a hazy night wan­der­ing from bar to bar. (My faves were the Spot­ted Cat and the Blue Nile.) An­other gem is the nearby Starlight Lounge. Bounc­ers at the bar say the ghosts of chil­dren who lived and died there cen­turies ago pull on their jack­ets to get them to play with them. SIP Everything in NOLA is the old­est or the big­gest or the first, but Lafitte’s Black­smith Shop Bar (named af­ter the rogu­ish pi­rate) is undis­puted as the old­est bar in Amer­ica. Come for the Voodoo Daiquiri; stay for the pi­ano bar. EAT If you don’t eat a po’ boy sand­wich, did you re­ally go to New Or­leans? Check out Park­way Bak­ery and Tav­ern in Mid-City for one of the best. For a fancier spot that’s as pop­u­lar with lo­cals as it is with tourists, try An­toine’s. IF YOU HAVE TIME... The Saz­erac House—a mu­seum ded­i­cated to the city’s iconic cock­tail made of ab­sinthe, rye and co­gnac—is open­ing this sum­mer. †

The din­ing room at An­toine’s

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