Do adaptogens really work?
A growing number of beauty enthusiasts believe ADAPTOGENS could be the secret to a GLOWING COMPLEXION and HEALTHY SKIN. Are they right? It depends on whom you ask.
YOU MAY HAVE HEARD the recent buzzword “adaptogens” being mentioned in beauty circles more frequently lately, and there’s a good reason for that. These herbal substances are touted as holistic aids for physical and mental health— both of which are currently top of mind. Adaptogens are, in fact, nothing new. They are herbs, roots or fungi—like ginseng, maca and aloe vera—that have been used for thousands of years in Chinese and Indian medicine and are said to increase the body’s ability to adapt to different stressors. This theory gained popularity during the Second World War, when Nicolaï Lazarev, a Russian toxicologist, studied plants in search of a natural way to efficiently increase the Russian army’s endurance and energy.
Since then, the concept has become way more accessible, and an array of adaptogens—in the form of pills, capsules and powders meant to help or prevent certain medical conditions—is now available in the naturopathy section at the drugstore. Online, it’s easy to find an arsenal of similar products promising miraculous results, often from obscure sources—and therein lies the problem, says nutritionist Amélie Loiselle. “Few studies have demonstrated the real effects of these products, which leads me to think that what we’re being sold isn’t based on solid hypotheses,” she says. “Natural health products are not regulated as strictly as medications. Analyses have shown that certain products don’t contain the exact amount of ingredients indicated on labels or that what they promise has been exaggerated compared to the actual results.” One word to keep in mind? Vigilance.
PROCEED WITH CAUTION
“Are they dangerous? No,” says Natasha Geddes, a holistic nutritionist and the founder of Good Goddess, a Torontobased wellness and nutrition company. “Should they be taken seriously? Yes. Although adaptogens are natural, they are considered medicinal and should be treated as such. You should always consult an expert before venturing into this complex world.” Loiselle is also wary. “Studies have been conducted on certain vitamins and antioxidants and [how they affect] skin aging,” she says. “But there have been very few, and we still struggle to agree on recommended dosages, possible risks and potentially harmful effects. As a scientist, I can’t confirm that something is danger-free when I have no proof of that.”
Since hitting drugstore shelves, adaptogens have been making their way into our beauty routines. In 2017, the adaptogen industry was worth US$8 billion in the United States alone. Endorsed by the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow, these plant ingredients have been incorporated into creams, serums and oils as well as powders, teas and other orally consumed products with the promise of delivering picture-perfect skin and an extraordinary glow. Surprisingly, these supplements can now be purchased at Sephora and other beauty-industry giants.
A HOLISTIC APPROACH
Léa Bégin, a makeup artist and the founder of Beauties Lab in Montreal, has been selling adaptogens in her boutique since she first opened it. “For me, adaptogens are a part of a holistic approach to health and a general wellness mindset,” she says. “I don’t sell them as beauty treatments per se, and I always tell my customers that to provide our skin with the care it deserves, we need to keep in mind that it’s 33 percent lifestyle, 33 percent the products we use and 33 percent nutrition. Everything is connected. There’s no magic formula or truly miraculous product.” According to Bégin, adaptogens