Kathryn Bowen’s personal nod to nostalgia. BY ERICA NGAO
Nostalgia takes shape in this Toronto designer’s new collection.
It’s not surprising that in a period rife with global crises and uncertainty, we reach for nostalgia as a way to cope. As we yearn for the “before times,” dated references are reshaped by our current realities and take on new meaning. For Toronto-based designer Kathryn Bowen, a pandemic-prolonged stay at home led to her digging up a childhood wardrobe of competitive-figure-skating dresses and training outfits, and the functional stretch fabrics—a distinctive hodgepodge of velour, mesh and jersey—and retro logos ended up providing the inspiration for her latest collection. In merging a youthful sentimentality with elevated sophistication, Bowen reflects on the continual non-linear process of forming one’s identity.
It’s a journey that’s also being taken by Bowen’s eponymous label, which she launched in 2018 after returning from studying in London, England. “In my earlier collections, I was committed to focusing on a certain level of craft and bespoke handwork in manufacturing,” she says. “Now, fashion is moving so quickly and—especially with the changes in online consumer demand happening as a result of COVID-19— these traditional methods are less desired but still very valuable.” Today, Bowen skilfully balances this approach with a design process that marries the functional aspect of vintage garments with contemporary concepts, ensuring that no matter where the compass points next, her creations will be cherished for generations to come.
POWER SUIT
“I’ve always loved the precision of tailoring and how you can create subtle new shapes when you know how to properly fit a garment. As a fashion student, I was influenced by the early collections of Miuccia Prada, Hussein Chalayan and Alexander McQueen. These designers were all focused on creating classic and unique silhouettes with tailoring. Even though I create womenswear, I love the androgyny of suits. The structure of a tailored suit can transform the silhouette, whether you want to emphasize your natural figure or hide it completely. It’s now really important for brands to think about non-binary garments and how to be more inclusive.”
CIRCULATION CREATION
“Being able to source materials and create locally as much as possible is one of the best ways to ensure that your business is sustainable. We need to talk about how we can create more manufacturing resources that are affordable and accessible since many emerging designers have to outsource internationally to find production solutions for their brand. It’s important that fashion schools also encourage students to find careers in manufacturing because we need young people to want to be part of the creating process, to find the fun in craft and to be inspired to potentially build the future of our production industry through innovative ideas that are more advanced and efficient.”
CYCLE OF CHANGE
“In 2020, I had to be very resourceful. The reality of working locally meant there were many new limitations on the process of developing and producing a collection. COVID-19 lockdowns have forced fashionbusiness owners—myself included—to be more considerate about consumer demands, politically aware of our impact and appreciative of local community resources. These are all positive things that will contribute to a more sustainable way of working. It’s a pivotal moment that we’re all going through that’s going to create permanent change.”