“It he was to

Fashion (Canada) - - Fragrance -

His third stab at it changed ev­ery­thing. “The name Ob­ses­sion is big, like a movie poster for this era,” the de­signer told about his am­ber flo­ri­en­tal in 1985. It was il­lus­trated with ads so sex­u­ally charged they were par­o­died by SNL and re­port­edly caused stores to sell out of the per­fume be­fore it even hit coun­ters.

The em­bod­i­ment of the brand, Klein mir­rored his life stages in his scents. “It started with Ob­ses­sion when he was run­ning around and go­ing to Stu­dio 54 and do­ing drugs,” says Ann Got­tlieb, a fra­grance con­sul­tant who has worked with the house since the be­gin­ning. “He then got mar­ried and the ring he gave Kelly inspired the ring that formed the neck of [Eter­nity’s] bot­tle. So that, in the­ory, rep­re­sented a ro­man­tic, slower life stage.” Eter­nity’s lighter, fresher scent ran counter to the over­the-top ’80s “po­tent ori­en­tal” juices, which re­flected the decade’s “car­nal­ity and ag­gres­sive pur­suit of money and suc­cess,” says Vos­naki. “It used a huge slice of Galax­olide, a syn­thetic musk used in laun­dry de­ter­gents and fab­ric softeners,” she says, which ex­plains why the orig­i­nal Eter­nity smelled of clean white linen. It was also in line with the pe­riod’s move­ment to­ward “fam­ily val­ues and a neo-con­ser­va­tive stance” that had gained mo­men­tum dur­ing the Gulf War and the AIDS epi­demic, Vos­naki adds. Mean­while, 1994’s CK One— with ads fea­tur­ing stringy-haired, an­drog­y­nous mod­els—was sold in record stores, racked near the Nir­vana and Pearl Jam al­bums, a sign of the grunge move­ment’s vise grip on the early ’90s.

Eter­nity Now (from $78) aims to se­cure a spot in the hearts of mil­len­ni­als. The his and hers fra­grances— a blend of ly­chee, quince sor­bet and peony for women, and co­conut wa­ter and spicy ginger for men—are backed by a Cass Bird-lensed cam­paign that fea­tures mod­els Jas­mine Tookes and To­bias Sorensen, a re­al­life cou­ple with plenty of In­sta­gram self­ies to prove it. And, surely, the name hints at the gen­er­a­tion’s need for im­me­di­acy, fu­elled by real-time apps like Snapchat and Periscope.

Only time will tell whether mil­len­ni­als look back on Eter­nity Now with the nos­tal­gia Gen­er­a­tion X has for CK One and whether its stay­ing power will match its most pop­u­lar pre­de­ces­sors. “CK One still res­onates with a lot of peo­ple,” says Harry Fre­mont, the per­fumer who con­cocted it. “My youngest daugh­ter is 30 and she wears it. She says it’s fresh and smells very clean—those val­ues are still right for to­day.”


CK ONE ($74), ETER­NITY ($98) AND OB­SES­SION ($98)

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