EX­CESS BAG­GAGE

Shed­ding the youth­ful in­no­cence of his pre­vi­ous scents, Marc Ja­cobs wants women to ful­fill their plea­sure prin­ci­ple with Deca­dence. By LESA HAN­NAH

Fashion (Canada) - - Fragrance -

IT’S A MAY MORN­ING AT PIER 59 STU­DIOS

in New York, and, in­side a cav­ernous photo stu­dio that smells faintly of cig­a­rette smoke, Marc Ja­cobs is scrolling through his phone. It would be fair to as­sume he’s on In­sta­gram; the de­signer started an ac­count in March, even though just a month prior he told Bri­tish fash­ion critic Suzy Menkes that so­cial media ap­palled him. Now, he floods his feed al­most daily with self­ies. “I’m very flip that way,” he says. “I didn’t want any part of so­cial media, then one day I woke up and said, ‘I want to have an In­sta­gram ac­count.’”

Sud­den about-faces are what Ja­cobs does with his fash­ion col­lec­tions, zigzag­ging from strict and tai­lored one sea­son to loose and lay­ered the next. But his fra­grances Daisy, Lola and Dot have all been youth­ful, play­ful and free-spir­ited, from the tac­tile flow­ers and la­dy­bugs that dec­o­rate the bot­tles to their re­spec­tive light and bright Juer­gen Teller-shot cam­paigns. Daisy, in par­tic­u­lar, “has the spirit of some­thing very fresh and in­no­cent,” says Ja­cobs. “It’s sweet. There’s a naiveté.”

That’s all chang­ing with Deca­dence em­bod­ied in the cam­paign by Brazil­ian model Adri­ana Lima—known pre­dom­i­nantly for be­ing a wing-wear­ing Vic­to­ria’s Se­cret An­gel—and not at all in keep­ing with Ja­cobs’s past faces like Sofia Cop­pola or Dakota Fan­ning. He seems to have aban­doned the shy girl who’s a lit­tle awk­ward for a wom­anly siren who gives in to her whims. “Deca­dence is re­ally about in­dul­gence and plea­sure and lux­ury,” he says. “It’s this in­dul­gent be­hav­iour but there’s still a kind of charm to it.”

To con­vey the sen­ti­ment, Ja­cobs wanted the bot­tle to look like an op­u­lent hand­bag. “I liked the idea of some kind of tal­is­man that’s very close to a woman’s sen­si­bil­ity,” he says. In­stead of plas­tic blooms and in­sects, the de­signer chose el­e­ments like emer­ald python, a silk tas­sel and a gold chain. “There’s some­thing a bit mys­te­ri­ous and sul­try, and some­thing you want to see or feel. It’s so op­po­site to what we’ve done be­fore.” In a sim­i­lar vein, the scent it­self is more ex­otic than past ones, which were bub­bly and light. “I wanted this to have a rich­ness and sen­su­al­ity, and to be a much deeper fra­grance,” he says.

Grow­ing up, Ja­cobs watched his mother and grand­mother en­gage in a daily trans­for­ma­tion that in­volved scent, makeup and cloth­ing. “I looked at that and thought, ‘How lucky are women to in­dulge in that?’” But he is most in­trigued by how peo­ple de­cide to por­tray them­selves. “I’ve al­ways been fas­ci­nated by the choices that peo­ple make—what they put on in terms of show­ing the world who they’d like them to think they are that day, that mo­ment, that hour. The psy­chol­ogy of it is re­ally in­cred­i­ble.”

(from $115),

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